What did you do to your Mark VIII today?

NoLimit95 said:
thaywood, SMD LED's are gonna look good when looking at them but as for long distance lighting, not too sure it's going to work out like an HID or halogen would.

I remember when they came out with SMD LED headlights for the Gen 1 and Geno tested them and said they sucked for a headlight. They are very good for interior lighting and or lighting that will be looked at but not for getting a beam of light from, if that makes sense.
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I'm not terribly worried about the overall visibility with the driving lights. They're more for looks anyway. I'll take some pics when they're installed. And hopefully:rolleyes: some day I'll get that set of bi-xenon HID headlights I want for the Cobra, and the sequential LED turn signals;) One thing at a time, unfortunately.
 
thaywood said:
I'm not terribly worried about the overall visibility with the driving lights. They're more for looks anyway. I'll take some pics when they're installed. And hopefully:rolleyes: some day I'll get that set of bi-xenon HID headlights I want for the Cobra, and the sequential LED turn signals;) One thing at a time, unfortunately.
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For looks, you'll be happy with them. I only got them for the reverse lights because the light spreads pretty good, especially with 22 in each bulb. I should be seeing behind me pretty good but anything further away than 10 to 20 ft. as a beam, I don't see that happening with SMD's but they are bright when you look at them. Those strips I put on the bottom of my headlights are SMD's. That's about what you're going to be seeing inside the lens.
 
Slowly cleaning up all the parts I got, pretty sure I got half the car. Now I just have to find somewhere to put it all.
 
Just remembered I need a fuel door button for the door panel. I put gas in her this morning and when I pressed the button, it popped out and landed behind the car. Luckily I found all the parts and put it back together. It works, but the little retainers on the button are broken and it won't stay in. Oh well, it's one thing after another with this car.
 
thaywood said:
Just remembered I need a fuel door button for the door panel. I put gas in her this morning and when I pressed the button, it popped out and landed behind the car. Luckily I found all the parts and put it back together. It works, but the little retainers on the button are broken and it won't stay in. Oh well, it's one thing after another with this car.
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Some super glue and a little pieces of plastic at the end of each stem works. Pretty ghetto but it can work if done correctly.
 
NoLimit95 said:
I don't get it either but I don't ever mess with Amazon much when it comes to ordering things. Now, remember, those Sylvania bulbs you have in now might be bright but just as soon as you put it in park, after the reverse lights have been on for about a minute, check the lens for heat. Regular LED's or SMD LED's will not give you any heat problems. I have seen Gen 1 tail lights with a small melted spot where someone put in a brighter normal style bulb.
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I'll check for heat, i'll likely be switching the LED's in so its not really money wasted lol. Thanks for the tip
 
thaywood said:
Just remembered I need a fuel door button for the door panel. I put gas in her this morning and when I pressed the button, it popped out and landed behind the car. Luckily I found all the parts and put it back together. It works, but the little retainers on the button are broken and it won't stay in. Oh well, it's one thing after another with this car.
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I got one around here somewhere but it's not in your color. I have no clue where it's even at right now anyway. Both have chrome buttons for the trunk and fuel and I was going to put them in but never did.
 
Just replaced the brighter sylvanias with the led's. Even in the day time they're white and later when it gets dark i can't wait to see how bright they are. Thanks again for the heads up NoLimit
 
NoLimit95 said:
I got one around here somewhere but it's not in your color. I have no clue where it's even at right now anyway. Both have chrome buttons for the trunk and fuel and I was going to put them in but never did.
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Let me know if you happen to find it. A chrome button for the fuel door would be very nice. It would match the trunk and windshield washer buttons:)
 
thaywood said:
Let me know if you happen to find it. A chrome button for the fuel door would be very nice. It would match the trunk and windshield washer buttons:)
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I got them from 98lincmk7lsc and he might have more of them. That was the reason that I did get them was to have chrome buttons, instead of black ones. I just never got around to swapping them out.
 
packing up my apartment and started moving and my car died out of the blue disconnected the battery and reconnected the batter and my car started to smoke by the fuse box and i removed the battery and then check the wiring and the battery pos cable that connects to the fuse box then runs to the fuel injector area began to melt any way to fix this i need my car back on the road asap.........
 
I was doing my usual driving from work to home. Merging onto the highway, my car decided, out of nowhere, puke out on as if it were starving of gas. It started backfiring/sputtering. I couldn't go past 1 - 2 inches on the accelerator or the engine would bog down.

First thing that came to mind was the fuel pump was on its way. I just couldn't hear it because of the highway noise (I had pulled over on the shoulder by this time). Decided to shut down and start the engine back up. All perfect again. No hesitation, full acceleration is there, as smooth as can be. WTF was that!

I am starting to think that the MAF may have played a role in this, or maybe the ECM is taking a dump.
 
Check the PCV vacuum hoses on the intake manifold. I had a similar problem with my '97 and it turned out to be dry rotted PCV hoses and "T" fitting. I put new hoses on it and a new T and all is well now.
 
thaywood said:
Check the PCV vacuum hoses on the intake manifold. I had a similar problem with my '97 and it turned out to be dry rotted PCV hoses and "T" fitting. I put new hoses on it and a new T and all is well now.
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It was just weird though. Everything was perfectly fine before and after this one incident. It leads me to believe it's something electrical. I'll check the PCV hoses/fittings to be sure though.
 
no aftermarket anything its my daily driver still after i finish moving and then the mods begin
 
K-FAN said:
no aftermarket anything its my daily driver still after i finish moving and then the mods begin
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Have you traced down your ground to make sure you have a good one? Really wouldn't hurt to have a couple of good grounds coming from the battery. That's weird though and I would be worried, especially with it going towards the injectors. You might need to locate another whole fuse block and install it because if you saw smoke, something melted and whatever melted might be something important.
 
well i traced everything it stoped where the pos terminal connects to the fuse box and the wires that give the injectors power is were i cut it at. the alternator i used replaced and the batterty was replaced with a old autocraft i had laying around ill post pics tomo of the damage i hope that this can be fixed
 
Magnetico said:
It was just weird though. Everything was perfectly fine before and after this one incident. It leads me to believe it's something electrical. I'll check the PCV hoses/fittings to be sure though.
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I bought a couple of rubber T's off rockauto because when I had the 94, mine was dry rotted bad and I couldn't for the life of me find one anywhere around me. I even went to a motorcycle/ATV place that sells those and asked them if they had anything like that and they didn't have anything that resembled one.

When I found them on rockauto, I got a few and have them in toolbox just in case. I doubt that's your problem from what you described. Almost sounds like the ECU might be acting up and if you think it's the MAF, get some CRC MAF cleaner in the silver can and clean it real good. Can't hurt. I'm not sure if you're one of the K&N filter guys but I learned to just stay with a Wix paper filter. Run a check for codes or let AZ or Advance run a test and see what they come up with. Between the two, they might be able to tell the story of what happened. Might be a clogged fuel filter, dirty MAF, fuel pump playing out, ECU going bad....
 
K-FAN said:
well i traced everything it stoped where the pos terminal connects to the fuse box and the wires that give the injectors power is were i cut it at. the alternator i used replaced and the batterty was replaced with a old autocraft i had laying around ill post pics tomo of the damage i hope that this can be fixed
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I'm sure it can be fixed. Just have to figure out what caused it. Pics do help and someone might be able to see a pic and tell you exactly what the problem is.
 
It totally sounds like something is getting pinched somewhere with his battery cable. Or, since he just changed his alternator, he should check to make sure the terminal and plug that connect to it are not getting grounded on any brackets or other metal parts.
 
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