What did you do to your Mark VIII today?

My '96 had Arnott front air shocks and I lowered it with no problems. I don't know what's going on with this one. I went out and looked at it a few minutes ago and it seems to have settled a little and it looks a tad lower than it was before. Maybe it takes a little while? We'll see in the morning.

On a more positive note, it seems that fiddling with the front end has quieted the "thunking" noise I have been having for the last week or so:)
 
On a more positive note, it seems that fiddling with the front end has quieted the "thunking" noise I have been having for the last week or so:)

Finally something positive has happened to you with at least one vehicle this weekend. :D

My arnotts lowered just fine.

I have no clue then as to why some do and some don't. Maybe you two should compare UCA's and LCA's. Also, maybe something has changed with Arnott's from one year to the next...:confused:
 
Finally something positive has happened to you with at least one vehicle this weekend. :D

Yeah:) And I found the reason my '94 Exploder's right front tire was leaking down. There was a nail in the inner sidewall right where the tread meets the sidewall. Plugged it and we're good to go again!

I have no clue then as to why some do and some don't. Maybe you two should compare UCA's and LCA's. Also, maybe something has changed with Arnott's from one year to the next...:confused:

Only difference I can see is that my '96 had the old design and my '97 has the updated design:confused:
 
Seems like I have read somewhere that the Arnott's don't sensor lower like the OEM air shocks will. I can't say for certain but I remember reading it somewhere a while back. I didn't drill at all but only raised mine almost as high as they would go and it dropped the front right where I like it to be. I still have a little space left to raise them up but I don't think it would amount to much. If I were to drill, I'm certain that the front would drop down pretty low.

Does anyone on here have Arnott's in the front and a Ray's Switch? Just wonder if they will go as low as the OEM's do...

nah. i can tuck the front 275s with the arnotts. that ain't it. see sig pic.
 
IMG_0548.jpg


arnotts go this low. pretty sure that was bump stops.
 
about the same.. you tuck a little more tire, but my tires are an inch shorter than stock.
either way, should have zero problems sensor lowering. idk whats up.
 
Cleaned and installed some of the parts from my picking adventure, old parts were good but the new ones are better. Surprisingly.....

Switched out my heated seat/defrost panel for the plain one. Heated seats were taking a sh!t.

Switched my upper dash panel. Gps mount scuffed up the old one a little.

Installed mint autodim rearview mirror :)

Shampoo'd and installed rear deck panel. Old one was modified for stereo.

I also put in that little rubber pad that covers the bottom in the center console storage area. Mine didn't come with one, I like it. Put in a new change dispenser thing in there too, fits perfect right on top, don't think it was factory but it sure fits like it.

Switched out the drivers side door handle bezel. Got a little super glue on the old one. :(

Other then that I just wrapped/labeled up my spare parts and threw them in a box.


Also unhooked 1 of my type r's. Just going to run a single sub setup now for fear i'll have another rearview mirror incident. Sounds alot better then I was expecting.
 
about the same.. you tuck a little more tire, but my tires are an inch shorter than stock.
either way, should have zero problems sensor lowering. idk whats up.

Today it looked like it may have settled a little. It looked a few millimeters lower. Next weekend I may move the brackets up a little more. But I don't know if the height sensors will compress any more than they are now. We'll see.
 
Today I changed out my intake manifold gaskets , while I was in it , I changed all the orings and pintle caps on the injectors .
My car has had terrible vac leak but it don't sound like a vac cleaner under my
Hood no more.
I will start a thread when I recover , big job but not too bad, just time consuming
Heck I spent more time cleaning the mating surfaces, the imrc plates and intake.
My mark runs like a diff car.
 
Those are purdy. I still have to get a few more LED's for my backup lights, parking lights, cornering lights, and the p/s door panel light and my car will be all LED. WEll, all except for instrument panel and message center bulbs. I've got all blue LED's in my interior right now and LED tail/brake lights with HID hi and lo beams. My goal is to have zero incandescent bulbs in the car when I'm done.
 
I have a set of led's i ordered for my reverse lights that i never opened, got em like a week ago. I changed the stock bulbs to some bright sylvania's, everyone i've showed them too said there really bright and i think so too. Obviously not as bright as LED's would be but they're very bright and noticeable which is what i want- its important for people to see you when your backing up
 
I have a set of led's i ordered for my reverse lights that i never opened, got em like a week ago. I changed the stock bulbs to some bright sylvania's, everyone i've showed them too said there really bright and i think so too. Obviously not as bright as LED's would be but they're very bright and noticeable which is what i want- its important for people to see you when your backing up

I remember what you ordered.
[url]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00409C85C/ref=s9_simh_gw_p236_d0_g236_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=1QRGRCD1SNNA1G15VRHD&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=470938631&pf_rd_i=507846[/URL]

I paid $1 more than you lol. Free shipping and I made sure they were SMD LED's and also made sure they shined straight out, unlike my interior SMD LED's that have lighting all the way around the light. I'll see how they do in a couple of days. Pics will be posted.
 
I remember what you ordered.
[url]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00409C85C/ref=s9_simh_gw_p236_d0_g236_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=1QRGRCD1SNNA1G15VRHD&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=470938631&pf_rd_i=507846[/URL]

I paid $1 more than you lol. Free shipping and I made sure they were SMD LED's and also made sure they shined straight out, unlike my interior SMD LED's that have lighting all the way around the light. I'll see how they do in a couple of days. Pics will be posted.


Yeah i completely forgot i ordered them then i got the package in the mail and was like what is this, i didn't order anything lol. Can't wait to see pics of your LED's
 
I don't get it either but I don't ever mess with Amazon much when it comes to ordering things. Now, remember, those Sylvania bulbs you have in now might be bright but just as soon as you put it in park, after the reverse lights have been on for about a minute, check the lens for heat. Regular LED's or SMD LED's will not give you any heat problems. I have seen Gen 1 tail lights with a small melted spot where someone put in a brighter normal style bulb.
 
Just got the H3 SMD LED fog light bulbs for the Cobra in the mail today. Hopefully, I'll get them installed in the next couple of days. One of the fogs burned out about a week ago and I just decided to order two LED bulbs. Got them off fleabay for $3.79 shipped. Lets hope they work.:)
 
Just got the H3 SMD LED fog light bulbs for the Cobra in the mail today. Hopefully, I'll get them installed in the next couple of days. One of the fogs burned out about a week ago and I just decided to order two LED bulbs. Got them off fleabay for $3.79 shipped. Lets hope they work.:)

thaywood, SMD LED's are gonna look good when looking at them but as for long distance lighting, not too sure it's going to work out like an HID or halogen would.

I remember when they came out with SMD LED headlights for the Gen 1 and Geno tested them and said they sucked for a headlight. They are very good for interior lighting and or lighting that will be looked at but not for getting a beam of light from, if that makes sense.
 

Members online

No members online now.
Back
Top