What did you do to your Mark VIII today?

I do like those but still going for the Koni adjustable shocks. Those do look good though and having 18 adjustments would be pretty awesome, although you might only use 3 of them.
 
AC was blowing only slightly cool, and I thought I had a blend door problem. Thankfully turned out just to be low on refrigerant, which was quickly solved by a trip to Walmart, getting some AC Pro, and recharging. Blowing nice and cool now, which I couldn't have any other way in these Miami temperatures.

I never seem to have much luck with those things. I've tried it on my 94 TBird and also on my Mark. It helped some but after taking it to a AC shop, it was x1000 better. I would just spend the extra $50 for a full evac and refill.
 
Just had my Cobra Bilsteins delivered today. I hate some things coming over the border as I get raped.

So here it is, I paid $65.00 for the pair of shocks, $42.07 on shipping USPS and then when I get them to my door the Canadian Border Customs nails me for another $30.00 in taxes. All because the guy shipping them wrote the declared value of $150.00 instead of the $65.00 I paid for them.

Install this weekend
 
all new front control arms, ball joints, strut rod bushings, sway bar links, and spark plugs. drives MUCH better. i need to figure out whats going on with the air suspension tho
 
all new front control arms, ball joints, strut rod bushings, sway bar links, and spark plugs. drives MUCH better. i need to figure out whats going on with the air suspension tho

One thing at a time. Just be patient when dealing with it, If you aren't you'll likely be visiting us on the spring side. :cool:

Glad its all done though, you should be good for a long while.
 
:mad::mad:cant beleive the sh!tty Luck this morning.. I had the car purring for 24 hours, now the stud that holds the height sensor inplace on MY BRAND NEW Upper Control ARM has snapped off while I was driving on the highway... Guess what happened next? yep airbags inflated to maximum capacity..:mad::mad:

It took me over an hour on the side of the road to play with the sensors both sides to get it to deflate. is there a more direct way of deflating the bags should this occur again in the future? I mean besides tearing out the solenoid and air line..

And Oh yea, Now have to replace that freaking upper control arm again 2 times in 2 days. not cool. Guess when I do that I'll replace the other air shock...:eek::eek:
 
I never seem to have much luck with those things. I've tried it on my 94 TBird and also on my Mark. It helped some but after taking it to a AC shop, it was x1000 better. I would just spend the extra $50 for a full evac and refill.

your in st.pete, im closer to miami, but its all the same, going to be unbearable next month till october!
 
:mad::mad:cant beleive the sh!tty Luck this morning.. I had the car purring for 24 hours, now the stud that holds the height sensor inplace on MY BRAND NEW Upper Control ARM has snapped off while I was driving on the highway... Guess what happened next? yep airbags inflated to maximum capacity..:mad::mad:

It took me over an hour on the side of the road to play with the sensors both sides to get it to deflate. is there a more direct way of deflating the bags should this occur again in the future? I mean besides tearing out the solenoid and air line..

And Oh yea, Now have to replace that freaking upper control arm again 2 times in 2 days. not cool. Guess when I do that I'll replace the other air shock...:eek::eek:

Go to a junkyard and get the trunk lid lift ball stud off a SN-95 or later trunk lid. It is threaded into the trunk lid hinge so you will have to get a nut to fit it (not sure of the size), and you will have to drill the hole in the upper control arm a little bigger, but it is the same size as the original ball. I did this on my old '94 Mark VIII.
Here is a pic:
studs.jpg


This will save you from having to replace the whole arm.
 
which model did you use TS706 rear 70-04 mustang?and are those delrin adapters at the top, you used those with the bilsteins as well correct?

I believe they were the 707's for the Cobra IRS, I got the brackets from 98lincmk7lsc back when he was making them. I used them on my Bilsteins as well.
 
It took me over an hour on the side of the road to play with the sensors both sides to get it to deflate. is there a more direct way of deflating the bags should this occur again in the future? I mean besides tearing out the solenoid and air line..

yes. i have full manual control in my car. requires some less than fun wiring.
read here:
http://www.markviii.org/LOD2/airsuspension2.htm
 
Kirk, I have to admit, those look nice. I like them. Still prefer my air but that set you have looks nice.

I learned something new today. Even if you have snipped the "check exterior lighting" message wire when installing HID's, the message center will still give you the message if one of your brake lights goes out. So, I replaced both rear bulbs with new ones. Both were different and I have never messed with them until today so I didn't know that I had two different bulbs but now both are the same and new. While I was in there, I added some 5 SMD LED's to the little side bulbs on each side. Turned out good.
 
Kirk, I have to admit, those look nice. I like them. Still prefer my air but that set you have looks nice.

I learned something new today. Even if you have snipped the "check exterior lighting" message wire when installing HID's, the message center will still give you the message if one of your brake lights goes out. So, I replaced both rear bulbs with new ones. Both were different and I have never messed with them until today so I didn't know that I had two different bulbs but now both are the same and new. While I was in there, I added some 5 SMD LED's to the little side bulbs on each side. Turned out good.

yep. there are 3 or 4 wires for the check exterior lights message. mine are unhooked cuz they don't play nice with my LED brake/turn signal bulbs.
 
yep. there are 3 or 4 wires for the check exterior lights message. mine are unhooked cuz they don't play nice with my LED brake/turn signal bulbs.

Well now I know. It caught me by surprise when I seen it but I noticed that I had pressed the brake and then I thought to myself that I had that wire snipped. Backed it in the garage and then stepped on the brake and noticed the drivers side wasn't glowing bright. I just went ahead and went with new Sylvanias for the tail and brake and then put in the SMD LED's on the sides and with those only, I'm not getting any messages now. It's nice to know though that it will still tell me that a brake light is out. Shouldn't have to worry about them for a while now.
 
Washed the Mark this morning. It has been raining since sunday when I drove the car back from Carlisle. Rained every night so I never washed it till just now. Just did a quick wash and dry. Gonna spray it with some Turtle wax black quick detailer when the towels dry.
Then if it stays dry and sunny I might stick the front plate on the grill and try to get a sticker.

All I want to do is drive, but I have other chores, especially cutting the grass. It rained so much I am going to have to cut it 3 times. 2 times today and another tomorrow.

But back to the car. Mmmmmmm.

I will post clean pics a lil later. Maybe if I have enough time that is. I refused to work this entire weekend. That make 2 in a row. Let em fire my azz.:D
 
Started taking dash apart to do Blender Door and clouds rolled in :(

Put everything back together and sky cleared up a few hours later :roll eyes:

However someone came over and paid cash for the Airstream in my driveway. My house no longer has that Meth Lab look anymore :p
 
Completed my 1000 mile Florida road trip tonight :) Back home now. Thankfully car didn't die. I've stopped topping off the tank for now (only fill it up to 14-15 gallons) and so far the car hasn't cut off after leaving gas stations. Hopefully it's just an old fuel filter.

On a side note, I also had my Dynomax Ultraflo-X muffler and tips put on along with mandrel bent tubing while in Ft Lauderdale (CM Performance Exhaust). Sounds awesome especially cruising on the highway. Surprisingly no drone at all at 2000RPM's but 1500 and below may become annoying because the torque converter locks up early during light-to-light driving. Would love to reprogram the shifting program. Not just five minutes of leaving the exhaust shop, I had gotten my first thumbs up from a guy in a stock Grand Marquis in traffic.:cool:
 
Completed my 1000 mile Florida road trip tonight :) Back home now. Thankfully car didn't die. I've stopped topping off the tank for now (only fill it up to 14-15 gallons) and so far the car hasn't cut off after leaving gas stations. Hopefully it's just an old fuel filter.

On a side note, I also had my Dynomax Ultraflo-X muffler and tips put on along with mandrel bent tubing while in Ft Lauderdale (CM Performance Exhaust). Sounds awesome especially cruising on the highway. Surprisingly no drone at all at 2000RPM's but 1500 and below may become annoying because the torque converter locks up early during light-to-light driving. Would love to reprogram the shifting program. Not just five minutes of leaving the exhaust shop, I had gotten my first thumbs up from a guy in a stock Grand Marquis in traffic.:cool:

Kewl! Your location is St. Pete, but you went to Ft. Lauderdale for your exhaust?!?
 
Well I had a business trip to Jacksonville, but then drove down to Miami to visit some family and just felt like taking a nice long road trip. Then this morning went over to CM in Margate for my exhaust install appointment. The guy wasn't kidding when he said it would take 5+ hours but totally worth it.

I used to live near there, FYI :)
 
Installed new rear brake pads yesterday. The p/s was a piece of cake. The d/s however, was a PITA. I had to take the caliper off and put it in a vice to get the piston to catch the threads so I could twist it in. That has never happened before. So I had to bleed the brakes when I got done and the feel a whole lot better now:)
 
Installed new rear brake pads yesterday. The p/s was a piece of cake. The d/s however, was a PITA. I had to take the caliper off and put it in a vice to get the piston to catch the threads so I could twist it in. That has never happened before. So I had to bleed the brakes when I got done and the feel a whole lot better now:)

And now you've probably crushed the inner seal and bearing , use the right tool for once!
 
Just did my rear pads most likely for the first time ever on this car? Found the pad that was making the noise :D

Wait I meant :(

Every Mark I have had so far has spit a rear pads friction material. Been using Duralast Gold Semi Metallic and seem to last no problem.
 
Just did my rear pads most likely for the first time ever on this car? Found the pad that was making the noise :D

Wait I meant :(

Every Mark I have had so far has spit a rear pads friction material. Been using Duralast Gold Semi Metallic and seem to last no problem.

Replacing the pads does not FIX your problem, you've either got binding hardware (very common on Ford rear brakes) binding calipers, or binding parking brake parts ( pedal assy, cable, actuator) until you FIX it properly, you're going to keep tossing pads at it
Brakes should wear evenly across the car left and right, inner and outter pads should all be the same.
I can't tell by your pic which is the inner/outter pad, but you've definitely got other brake issues

Also with that ammount of grinding on that pad, I'd bet my left nut your rotor is trash as well, and if its not trash, and you didn't have it resurfaced, then you just ruined another set of pads

Brake hardware should be replaced and lubed as a PMCS (PREVENTIVE maintenance, checks and services)


I don't mean to sound so brash about it, but I'm a brake safety nazi. Its the ONLY system equipped to STOP your car..might wanna make sure it does its job
 
Replacing the pads does not FIX your problem, you've either got binding hardware (very common on Ford rear brakes) binding calipers, or binding parking brake parts ( pedal assy, cable, actuator) until you FIX it properly, you're going to keep tossing pads at it
Brakes should wear evenly across the car left and right, inner and outter pads should all be the same.
I can't tell by your pic which is the inner/outter pad, but you've definitely got other brake issues

Also with that ammount of grinding on that pad, I'd bet my left nut your rotor is trash as well, and if its not trash, and you didn't have it resurfaced, then you just ruined another set of pads

Brake hardware should be replaced and lubed as a PMCS (PREVENTIVE maintenance, checks and services)
As I posted all my Marks have done this and I mean ALL. 96' had a stuck rusted pin the 98' stuck ebrake.

This one went metal on metal yesterday. Swung into Azone and had to order pads that came in this morning. Took Silver Mark to go pick then up. When I pulled off the tires the LCA's looked almost new along with all the bolts I took out. Nuthing was stuck or frozen and the back of the rotor was not even scored yet. Pads had a bit more than .062 left on em average. Did a hot swap on old rotors and if anything goes bad again It gets all new as the fronts aren't far away most likely.
 

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