NoLimit95
Dedicated LVC Member
I do like those but still going for the Koni adjustable shocks. Those do look good though and having 18 adjustments would be pretty awesome, although you might only use 3 of them.
AC was blowing only slightly cool, and I thought I had a blend door problem. Thankfully turned out just to be low on refrigerant, which was quickly solved by a trip to Walmart, getting some AC Pro, and recharging. Blowing nice and cool now, which I couldn't have any other way in these Miami temperatures.
all new front control arms, ball joints, strut rod bushings, sway bar links, and spark plugs. drives MUCH better. i need to figure out whats going on with the air suspension tho
I never seem to have much luck with those things. I've tried it on my 94 TBird and also on my Mark. It helped some but after taking it to a AC shop, it was x1000 better. I would just spend the extra $50 for a full evac and refill.
cant beleive the sh!tty Luck this morning.. I had the car purring for 24 hours, now the stud that holds the height sensor inplace on MY BRAND NEW Upper Control ARM has snapped off while I was driving on the highway... Guess what happened next? yep airbags inflated to maximum capacity..
It took me over an hour on the side of the road to play with the sensors both sides to get it to deflate. is there a more direct way of deflating the bags should this occur again in the future? I mean besides tearing out the solenoid and air line..
And Oh yea, Now have to replace that freaking upper control arm again 2 times in 2 days. not cool. Guess when I do that I'll replace the other air shock...
which model did you use TS706 rear 70-04 mustang?and are those delrin adapters at the top, you used those with the bilsteins as well correct?
It took me over an hour on the side of the road to play with the sensors both sides to get it to deflate. is there a more direct way of deflating the bags should this occur again in the future? I mean besides tearing out the solenoid and air line..
Kirk, I have to admit, those look nice. I like them. Still prefer my air but that set you have looks nice.
I learned something new today. Even if you have snipped the "check exterior lighting" message wire when installing HID's, the message center will still give you the message if one of your brake lights goes out. So, I replaced both rear bulbs with new ones. Both were different and I have never messed with them until today so I didn't know that I had two different bulbs but now both are the same and new. While I was in there, I added some 5 SMD LED's to the little side bulbs on each side. Turned out good.
yep. there are 3 or 4 wires for the check exterior lights message. mine are unhooked cuz they don't play nice with my LED brake/turn signal bulbs.
Completed my 1000 mile Florida road trip tonight Back home now. Thankfully car didn't die. I've stopped topping off the tank for now (only fill it up to 14-15 gallons) and so far the car hasn't cut off after leaving gas stations. Hopefully it's just an old fuel filter.
On a side note, I also had my Dynomax Ultraflo-X muffler and tips put on along with mandrel bent tubing while in Ft Lauderdale (CM Performance Exhaust). Sounds awesome especially cruising on the highway. Surprisingly no drone at all at 2000RPM's but 1500 and below may become annoying because the torque converter locks up early during light-to-light driving. Would love to reprogram the shifting program. Not just five minutes of leaving the exhaust shop, I had gotten my first thumbs up from a guy in a stock Grand Marquis in traffic.
Installed new rear brake pads yesterday. The p/s was a piece of cake. The d/s however, was a PITA. I had to take the caliper off and put it in a vice to get the piston to catch the threads so I could twist it in. That has never happened before. So I had to bleed the brakes when I got done and the feel a whole lot better now
As I posted all my Marks have done this and I mean ALL. 96' had a stuck rusted pin the 98' stuck ebrake.Replacing the pads does not FIX your problem, you've either got binding hardware (very common on Ford rear brakes) binding calipers, or binding parking brake parts ( pedal assy, cable, actuator) until you FIX it properly, you're going to keep tossing pads at it
Brakes should wear evenly across the car left and right, inner and outter pads should all be the same.
I can't tell by your pic which is the inner/outter pad, but you've definitely got other brake issues
Also with that ammount of grinding on that pad, I'd bet my left nut your rotor is trash as well, and if its not trash, and you didn't have it resurfaced, then you just ruined another set of pads
Brake hardware should be replaced and lubed as a PMCS (PREVENTIVE maintenance, checks and services)