What did you do to your Mark VIII today?

2002WRXSTi said:
Had to grease up my new UCA's today already so I took the truck to work. Of course the gas station was at $3.36 for 93 and I didn't have the car that needed it :mad:
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$3.36 for premium??!?!?!?! :eek: Dammit! I live in the wrong place!! It's still $3.85 - $4.05 around here :mad: Regular is still $3.50 a gal here. :(

On a lighter note, I'm going to borrow a fuel pressure gauge from a friend of mine and check the Cobra's fuel pressure on Monday. That should narrow down the problem a bit hopefully. If I can't fix it Monday, she'll have to take it to a shop and pay somebody. I'm fed the fcuk up with that frakkin' POS!!! I used to want a Cobra. Not any more...
 
dnsherrill said:
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wow, it's only been...a month? do all or most UCA's need periodic re-lube? I may do mine soon
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Just greased em but still getting a creak when my air ride lets it lower when I close the door. Thinking I have to take the front tires off and grease the new Sway Bar Links. Totally forgot I just installed them too.

Just got back from Harbor Freight where I got a Air Assist Grease Gun. So I will be making sure nothing is gonna go dry :shifty:
 
Forgot to add that the stocker have no grease provisions. They are a Nylon bushing inside and it the boot gets a rip or dry rots they are toast.

I put on a set of AC Delco units because they have grease fittings and seem to be a larger ball joint than the stockers.
Left(my bad) is a TRW/MOOG style with small joint un-greasable. Right one is Autozone I returned but is the same as the AC Delco that is larger and has grease fitting.
 
thaywood said:
$3.36 for premium??!?!?!?! :eek: Dammit! I live in the wrong place!! It's still $3.85 - $4.05 around here :mad: Regular is still $3.50 a gal here. :(
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Well it is only that cheap at a Cash gas station on Tues and Fridays if I remember right?

However I did see it down to $3.12 a gal for regular which is Honky Dory for my 25 gallon tank pickup :D

Cant wait for it to go to $2.99 :cool:
 
4.25 for 93 in the counties surrounding Chicago, 4.30+ in the city from what i've seen. :(

Spring maintenance/cleaning has begun!

Changed my oil with some Penn High mileage, checked/filled fluids, lubed, cleaned the maf and shorted the Windshield washer sensor so that it stops yelling at me via the message center everytime I start it up. :)

Round 2:

Polish headlights
Touchups

2maro:

Polish wheels and a wash.


From what I saw underneath i'll soon be needing a front end rebuild, bushings are fuked. Also some questionable rust on misc lines, i'll worry about those at a later time.
 
dnsherrill said:
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wow, it's only been...a month? do all or most UCA's need periodic re-lube? I may do mine soon
Click to expand...

Thought I would grease mine for the 1st time since I put them on last summer (8000 miles since installed). No noises, creak's...nothing! But I figured since I was doing everything else under there I would grease them and the 200K tie rod end's, that are still holding up like a champ!
Did the factory tie rod end's come with grease fitting's?? Mine have them.
 
Spree said:
Thought I would grease mine for the 1st time since I put them on last summer (8000 miles since installed). No noises, creak's...nothing! But I figured since I was doing everything else under there I would grease them and the 200K tie rod end's, that are still holding up like a champ!
Did the factory tie rod end's come with grease fitting's?? Mine have them.
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Good question cause if they do I'll be greasing them tomorrow too.
 
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Spent about 15 min on each. They really got hammered this winter.
 
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tonight....noticed my HID's are increasingly blacking out, then returning- not a true 'flicker'..VVME's < 12 months old
:q x10
 
Polished the wheels and touched it up. They polished up ok but the winter got to the chrome in a couple new spots. Also remounted my flush rear glass antenna. I wanted to leave it off but the inside mount wouldn't budge. Double sided tape over tint :eek:, didn't want to force it and looked like dookie from the outside w/ the ext mount off. I also washed it and did the normal Sunday routine. :rolleyes:

Twas a beautiful day. :D
 
started dismantling front end suspension prepping to replace Hubs, LCA's, SRB's at LCA and sway bar links..running into difficulty:
----
1)getting the lower shaft from the sway bar link to back out of the stabilizer:
P4290299_zps5a93c205.jpg

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and
2)getting the camber bolt at LCA and subframe to back out
P4290303_zpse3062d8d.jpg

anybody got suggestions?
 
Since it was over 2 years ago now that I did my LCA's lets see if I remember correctly how I did it?

I do believe I had to spin the bolt out of the shock/air bag assembly. The Sway Bar links I did with a pickle fork ball joint tool. A small head U as my Ball Joint tool has 3 sizes to install on the unit.

The main bolt with the camber adjuster I think we put a nut on the end to make sure we didn't damage it and wailed on it with a hammer :confused:
 
stepped off then came back and got something done, I thik I found part of my 'clunk'...(Lower BJ)
P4290306_zps2d7fd9b2.jpg

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had to use the wobbly jaws/arm puller to get the stinkin' end link shaft out of the sway bar..no idea why that was so hard
P4290304_zps900617f8.jpg
 
how the heck does that ABS sensor come off the spindle? I loosened the 8mm bolt already
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thought I could keep the outer tie rod ends, but they look pretty bad- gonna replace those also; do the inners also typically need r/r after 100k?
 
dnsherrill said:
started dismantling front end suspension prepping to replace Hubs, LCA's, SRB's at LCA and sway bar links..running into difficulty:
----
1)getting the lower shaft from the sway bar link to back out of the stabilizer:
P4290299_zps5a93c205.jpg

---
and
2)getting the camber bolt at LCA and subframe to back out
P4290303_zpse3062d8d.jpg

anybody got suggestions?
Click to expand...
Change it all! Not expensive and defiantly worth it! LCA's, Stablizer bar end link's and SRB's. You won't regret it, I'll drive like a new car!
 
it might not be rusted, even though the rotors were thoroughly rusted to the hub- but I don't think there's any real need to remove the sensor...should i just go ahead and r/r tie rod ends since I'm into it?
 
With front wheels off the ground, grab wheel at 3 and 9 and shake.. does it jiggle any? If so replace the failing tie rod
 
dnsherrill said:
started dismantling front end suspension prepping to replace Hubs, LCA's, SRB's at LCA and sway bar links..running into difficulty:
----
1)getting the lower shaft from the sway bar link to back out of the stabilizer:
P4290299_zps5a93c205.jpg

---
and
2)getting the camber bolt at LCA and subframe to back out
P4290303_zpse3062d8d.jpg

anybody got suggestions?
Click to expand...

The reason the sway bar link was so hard to remove is because its a tapered fit just like a balljoint or a tie rod. And it looks like your cam washer in the pic is bad, it should be at 3 o'clock. The flat on the bolt should face the thickest part of the washer
 
chicken said:
The reason the sway bar link was so hard to remove is because its a tapered fit just like a balljoint or a tie rod. And it looks like your cam washer in the pic is bad, it should be at 3 o'clock. The flat on the bolt should face the thickest part of the washer
Click to expand...
yea, after smacking it around for waaay too long I put the arm puller on it and pressed it out
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the cam washer did have the thickest part at 3'o clock before I turned it 90 deg....back at it today
 
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