What did you do to your Mark VIII today?

I used to do this same thing with my cars. I did it a little differently. I used a muti-plug cigarette adapter plug almost like this:

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Then I just hardwired it with a long standard 20 amp fused wire from the center console of my car to my amplifier distribution block in my trunk. I then used another short peice of wire to ground the strip under the console. I cut the wire to the cigarette plug on the strip and crimped these two new wires to the wires the power wiring I ran. I ran all the cords from my GPS, Sat Radio, Phone charger, etc to the console and plugged them in to the power strip after tucking the wiring all away. I used two sided tape and velcro to affix the power strip inside the floor of the console, I then hot glued some felt in black to a small peice of balsa wood and made a false floor in the console to cover the strip.

I thought about doing that but didnt want to spend the money..Def alot easier then doing them all seperatly like the way i did it. But mine is still really organized...
Only thing i would change is the location of the strip. i'd prob put it under the dash and run all the wires to the center console.
 
I thought about doing that but didnt want to spend the money..Def alot easier then doing them all seperatly like the way i did it. But mine is still really organized...
Only thing i would change is the location of the strip. i'd prob put it under the dash and run all the wires to the center console.

Yeah, I agree, in hindsight I would have done the same, in fact, I ran it to the glovebox in my towncars. I wouldn't have bought the strip either, but I had one laying around from a car I bought that had one in it. I've done stuff seperately like you did, because one time it caused noise interference and I was too cheap to buy a ground loop isolator.
 
I put my three 10's back in with the new amps, or newer and more powerful than what I had. Two ZX series amps. Kicker ZX1000.1 and a ZX650.4 and it is now beating extremely hard. Blue LED's coming next. :D

I still have to get some end caps for each one because they don't make a bridge for these amps. I hate wires to show.

DSC02503.jpg
 
Yeah, I agree, in hindsight I would have done the same, in fact, I ran it to the glovebox in my towncars. I wouldn't have bought the strip either, but I had one laying around from a car I bought that had one in it. I've done stuff seperately like you did, because one time it caused noise interference and I was too cheap to buy a ground loop isolator.

i hear ya..

As for the ground noise...I think thats the only reason my $8 fm modulator sounds as good as a cd..A good ground instead of the ground through the cig jack that goes through 20 diff harnesses..I bought a $30 dollar scoche modulator from walmart(to test out) that plugged into the cig jack and there was tons of static and it didnt sound good at all. Needless to say i returned it. Not sure if the same prob would occur going the strip route w/ a sep ground.
 
I put my three 10's back in with the new amps, or newer and more powerful than what I had. Two ZX series amps. Kicker ZX1000.1 and a ZX650.4 and it is now beating extremely hard. Blue LED's coming next. :D

I still have to get some end caps for each one because they don't make a bridge for these amps. I hate wires to show.

DSC02503.jpg

i forgot what ohm you said you were going to run them at..But yea, an extra 4-500rms over your other amp will def make them sound better. Your not going to run them a 6ohm again are you?
 
i forgot what ohm you said you were going to run them at..But yea, an extra 4-500rms over your other amp will def make them sound better. Your not going to run them a 6ohm again are you?

Yes, not much choice because of the amp not being 1 ohm stable but I can say that with it like it is, I have no complaints at all. I'm extremely happy with the way it sounds and the power difference I can hear and feel. The sound quality changed big time when I went from the one 12 back to the three 10's. Bass in all pitches is there with much more power. MUCH MORE!

The gain on the sub amp is between 1/4 and 1/2 right now. I can't bump it up any higher. My garage door was making big rattle noises at 11:30 tonight. I have ass's living next door to me that live by the noise ordinance law around here. Anyway, even if the amp would run them stable at 1 ohm or really 1.34 ohm, I still wouldn't change the wiring inside the box. It is more than I can handle in there with the volume at 10 or 11. With the other amp (2 channel) on them bridged, I was going up to 18 to 20 to get what I'm getting now. The entire box is wired inside with 8 gauge wire, directly to the amp.
 
ok but why i thought the 1 12 was uber better than the 3 10's?

It was a "make room" issue at first, which I really don't need and I never expected a 12 to put out what that one puts out. See, I never tested the new sub amp on the three 10's and I wish I would have just swapped out amps now. There is no comparison between three 10's and one 12, even if it is an L7, W6, W7 or Boston Acoustic. Don't get me wrong, it did sound good with the 12 but all in all, the looks were gone and the real sound was gone. Now I know this.

I mainly done it for you chicken. Remember the "WOW effect", well, I had to get it back. The next pic will be lit in blue and I'll also have some end caps for the amps. I am really trying hard to find a bridge for these amps. End caps are simple but I really want a bridge to go in the middle.
 
I like the way your stuff is set up, IDK if they made a bridge for those amps though.

I just had to mention, a single 13.5 W7 will beat even four 10s in SQ and output in the proper box and with the proper amp. I have heard first hand and seen on an spl meter.
 
My Awesome Mark VIII has new plug wires now and hopefully i will not have to do that again anytime soon. :D
 
I like the way your stuff is set up, IDK if they made a bridge for those amps though.

I just had to mention, a single 13.5 W7 will beat even four 10s in SQ and output in the proper box and with the proper amp. I have heard first hand and seen on an spl meter.

maybe if the 4 10's are pyles. The 3 jl's have more surface area.. And with both the 13w7 and 3 10's (i'm assuming there w3's) givin the same power and proper box size for each the 3 10's will own the w7.
 
maybe if the 4 10's are pyles. The 3 jl's have more surface area.. And with both the 13w7 and 3 10's (i'm assuming there w3's) givin the same power and proper box size for each the 3 10's will own the w7.
Not even close. 3-10W6 subs wont put out as much as a 13w7 in a ported box. the 10w3 has no where near the output of a W6 so yes, a single 13w7 will put out more then three of ALMOST any kind of sub.

Sound better though? No. W7 series do not have the best definition and are a little sloppy. They spund better then most other SPL subs but still are not an SQ sub.
 
maybe if the 4 10's are pyles. The 3 jl's have more surface area.. And with both the 13w7 and 3 10's (i'm assuming there w3's) givin the same power and proper box size for each the 3 10's will own the w7.

+1, I would take on a W7 any day in SQ. The 13 can not produce the higher pitch bass notes like a single 10 can, much less three of them. Mine being in the type of box they're in, which was designed specifically for these three 10's from a JL Audio box design CD. It's hitting the deep notes and high pitched bass notes. I know there are way way better sounding systems than what I have but for the amount of money that's invested in the things I have, I think it's sounding off pretty good. I guess Daniel is the only one that could personally verify how it sounds when ever he comes by.
 
I've never had good luck with them, but ya couldve had the ones I run for about $80
 

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