What did you do to your Mark VIII today?

well i just got back from new orleans today.... saw a few marks down there some in good shape but asking too much.... anyway

- 10/14/2010 was my birthday i replaced by hid ballast from a kit i bought off ebay ordered another set of hids 9006, ordered my 2.5" exhaust system with mufflers inclused for about 230 with shipping, washed and waxed her up before i left.
- waiting on the usp truck tomo and the usps for the mufflers tomo
- looking to order a cupp holder set (any ideas)
- replace the front struts/shocks asap
- figure out what this check engine code is again(damn)

- lookin to order my glitch ballast asap
 
94BLU8 said:
well i just got back from new orleans today.... saw a few marks down there some in good shape but asking too much.... anyway

- 10/14/2010 was my birthday i replaced by hid ballast from a kit i bought off ebay ordered another set of hids 9006, ordered my 2.5" exhaust system with mufflers inclused for about 230 with shipping, washed and waxed her up before i left.
- waiting on the usp truck tomo and the usps for the mufflers tomo
- looking to order a cupp holder set (any ideas)
- replace the front struts/shocks asap
- figure out what this check engine code is again(damn)

- lookin to order my glitch ballast asap
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happy birfday mang,
how much did ya give for your HID kit? I just installed mine yesterday, need to restore my housings for it to be alot better

Oreillys/autozone/advance will do a CEL scan for free
 
Ebay sells HID kits for like $37 shipped. Unless this is a special setup that had to be put together a special way, one of these plug and play kits seems cheaper.
 
pepperman said:
I got them from Advance Auto parts and they cost me $101.36
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:eek:

The last set I got from ebay about 4 years ago for $60 bucks. And they were Bosch. I think I need a new set. My '96 has a flutter that acts like a misfire. Just put a new set of Autolite 764's in last week and it didn't help at all. The wires have about 40K miles on them. My next set will probably be Motorcraft.
 
sbcaprice305 said:
feed the power wire through the cell panel or drill a hole if you dont have 1. Press in the tabs on both sides and it will pop out.

*PIC*

ran the wire through the cupholder as i never use it. I figure it wont break if its never open.

*PIC*

run the power wire(cig jack) under the consel and above the black panel by your knees. There will be a space were you can feed the wire from the back once you reach the fuse panel..

*PIC*

buy a $4 "add a fuse" or something like that to a switched 12v source as seen in the pic. I used the upper left bolt as a gound for all 3 of mine.

*PIC*

To hardwire it using the cig plug you'll have to open it up..You'll see a power (the nipple part) and the ground (sides). tap into those leads and run the wire to the fuseblock. You have to keep whatever is left in the cig lighter jack as it will contain resisters and such..When i opened mine up i just discarded the "nipple" part of the jack (screws off). And run the wire through the now empty hole.
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Cool beans man! Thanks a bunch!
 
sbcaprice305 said:
Btw, i bought this fm transmitter on ebay for 8 shipped and it rocks, no static ect even mounted in the armrest.. I live in the suburbs of chicago and i have 0 probs.

Heres a link to great open stations in your area.

http://www.radio-locator.com/cgi-bin/vacant
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Thanks! I find that 87.7 works great. No static and perfect clarity. It's a weak station in my area.
 
thaywood said:
Thanks! I find that 87.7 works great. No static and perfect clarity. It's a weak station in my area.
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Cool, thats the same station my FM mod is set to. You're right, extremely rare to ever get static.

I'm wondering who would buy Silverstars anymore when you can get a nice HID kit for $40 or less on Egay. I mean, some of these vendors have 35,000 plus sold with 99.8 percent feedback.
 
Changed my oil. Took well over an hour. The new sway bar is too damn big and I had to pull off the locking collars and slide the bar over to get the filter out. I see a relocation kit in my near future.
 
LaserSVT said:
Changed my oil. Took well over an hour. The new sway bar is too damn big and I had to pull off the locking collars and slide the bar over to get the filter out. I see a relocation kit in my near future.
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We-o we-o we-o!
 
OchoMarko said:
Cool, thats the same station my FM mod is set to. You're right, extremely rare to ever get static.

I'm wondering who would buy Silverstars anymore when you can get a nice HID kit for $40 or less on Egay. I mean, some of these vendors have 35,000 plus sold with 99.8 percent feedback.
Click to expand...

idk what was with the scoche one then...Mine was 1/3 the price and it works great. Tons and tons of people bi tch and moan about how much transmitters suck..I dont see it unless you live in nyc,chi,la ect.
 
Replaced window motor in the passenger door with a 2nd gen motor, and vacuumed it out and cleaned the trunk. Lazer tweaked my driver handle so it opens alot smoother now.
 
OchoMarko said:
Cool, thats the same station my FM mod is set to. You're right, extremely rare to ever get static.

I'm wondering who would buy Silverstars anymore when you can get a nice HID kit for $40 or less on Egay. I mean, some of these vendors have 35,000 plus sold with 99.8 percent feedback.
Click to expand...

Yep. That's what I'm planning to do...eventually...when the budget allows:(
I'm getting real tired of not being able to see at night with my '96 Mark's crappy headlights. But before I put the HID's in, I'll have to re-chrome them. That'll be fun.
 
thaywood said:
Yep. That's what I'm planning to do...eventually...when the budget allows:(
I'm getting real tired of not being able to see at night with my '96 Mark's crappy headlights. But before I put the HID's in, I'll have to re-chrome them. That'll be fun.
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I installed my HIDs already (got a plug n play kit for $40), made a huge difference, gonna try to get Jamie lences soon...money is so tight now

...during lunch noticed my brake pedal was spongy again, went back to the shop and got it on a lift to find it's my proportioning valve leaking...yay!
 
Rotated and threw away some bent wheels on my focus, and found a potential buyer for it. I also did the heli- coil on my mark anbd will be replacing the blocked thermostat tomorrow. And I replaced the leaky plug on the wife's van, and then I need figure out why the mark is idling so high.
 
Scorpio1118_2000 said:
Rotated and threw away some bent wheels on my focus, and found a potential buyer for it. I also did the heli- coil on my mark anbd will be replacing the blocked thermostat tomorrow. And I replaced the leaky plug on the wife's van, and then I need figure out why the mark is idling so high.
Click to expand...

Throttle clean? IMRCs not stuck?
 
Dropped it off at the glass shop, having new rear windshield installed :) we-o we-o
 
Just found out yesterday that my wife's d/s front air spring on the '97 LSC has a leak. She said that when she went over a speed bump at the daycare, she heard a whoosh coming from the front. I pushed the front end down and when it came back up, I heard the whoosh. Well, it was more like a quick "pssst". Anyway, it only does it on the rebound stroke, not on compression. As long as it sits at normal ride height, there's no leak. I guess I'll be getting a new set of front air spring/shocks for this car sooner than I anticipated.:(

This has inspired me to embark upon a project. I plan to design an air spring/shock assembly for the Mark VIII that has individually serviceable air springs and shocks. That way, if your air spring develops a leak, but your shocks are in perfect working order (my situation), then you can just replace the spring without having to buy a complete unit and throw away a perfectly good shock. And vice versa for the shocks. I don't know why someone hasn't done this before. It's such a simple idea. Now, the hard part is designing it. I plan to get to work as soon as possible. Hopefully, when I'm done, I can submit it to a few manufacturers and get it into production, saving a lot of Mark owners a boatload of money in the future. :)
 
http://www.ffcars.com/photopost/data/500/medium/IMG_21051.JPG

see the box behind the head with the 2 black lines coming out of it..Those go to your imrc's on each side.. The pass side is alot easier to check..Just follow the black line to the metal lever. Use your hand to move the quarter dollar sized metal bracket back and forth..if it moves you fine..If not, keep wiggeling it till it frees up.
 
Since the IMRs are controlled by vacuum, they need to be very free in order to work properly, if they are binding or gummy, get some SeaFoam, there's plenty of threads on how to apply it to the intake
 
Sapperfire said:
Since the IMRs are controlled by vacuum, they need to be very free in order to work properly, if they are binding or gummy, get some SeaFoam, there's plenty of threads on how to apply it to the intake
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I bought some of that and a new thermostat, but I'm going back to work tomorrow so I won't be able to get to it until thursday or friday. I'll search the thread about the seafoam thanks again guys!
 
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