What did you do to your Mark VIII today?

LaserSVT said:
The cold continues to take its toll. The trans cooler started to leak on its couplings and then the fuel door button broke and the spring shot me in teh eye. :lol:
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Well I quess your car is starting to act like a chick, once they find out you are kicking them to the curb, she starts to act all crazy and starts to through :q:q:q:q at you. Next thing you know, the BIOTCH will leave you for another man. Wait, that is what you are asking for, sorry.
 
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Noooooo! The Southland is being invaded by Yankee dust!!!
 
Waiting on my check next week, the 10spokes need new rubber. Wasn't gonna waste $60 on tire transfer so since these tires weren't flat spotted I threw them on.

We got about 4 inches last night, it's 28* according to the car and sunny, taking the kids snow sledding :)
 
Sapperfire said:
Waiting on my check next week, the 10spokes need new rubber. Wasn't gonna waste $60 on tire transfer so since these tires weren't flat spotted I threw them on.
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Makes sense, I was just fawking with ya.

LaserSVT said:
I mounted my new toy today. :D
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Don't ovals reduce cone rigidity and promote distortion? What do you think about this sub overall? Just wondering.
 
LaserSVT said:
The cold continues to take its toll. The trans cooler started to leak on its couplings and then the fuel door button broke and the spring shot me in teh eye. :lol:
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Mine broke about a month ago to.. Cold makes things brittle..I wonder what else would break on mine if i actually drove it when it was cold out.
 
Big Mike said:
Makes sense, I was just fawking with ya.



Don't ovals reduce cone rigidity and promote distortion? What do you think about this sub overall? Just wondering.
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That was my thought too but I had some old B&W speakers back in the day with oval woofers and they sounded killer.

It is by far the best sub I ever had though. Loud, clear and clean. I noticed around 40-50 hz it can get a little muddy but thats because of the ported box. When funds permit I will make a sealed box.
 
LaserSVT said:
That was my thought too but I had some old B&W speakers back in the day with oval woofers and they sounded killer.

It is by far the best sub I ever had though. Loud, clear and clean. I noticed around 40-50 hz it can get a little muddy but thats because of the ported box. When funds permit I will make a sealed box.
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What's it tuned to? A pre-made enclosure is probably pretty high. Is it made of decently thick boards, braced well, and does it have polyfill? Standing waves and vibrations will kill clarity. I'm sure you already know this though, I know you know your stuff. I havn't done much audio in a mark, but I'm gonna start soon. Do they have alot of EQ nightmare type issues?
 
Marks have a few unique issues. Bass is an issue with cancelation below 35hz and around 80ish hz. You can tune them out and box design helps too. Midbass is also an issue due to the doors large size. Spraying the inside of the door with Lizzard skin or something like it helps and then use VG2 or Dynamat on the doors face. A longer excursion midrange driver helps too.
My midbass is OK but not to the level I would like. The drivers I want to correct this are quite expensive and it will be some time before I can drop $600 on a new set of components.
 
I'm building a custom set, I'm thinking of using peerless midbasses for 70-700hz in the door holes with ported baffles to help restrict airspace a little and dynamat behind and in front of the baffles as well as behind the driver (not the name brand, but some sort of it). In the factory tweeter location I'm going to try some smaller fullrange drivers in the 700-2k range, and then a soft dome if I can't find some infinity EMITs on ebay. To bolster midbass, if you say it's weak, I'll probably run another set of the midbasses in the rear locations with less gain but cut them off around the upper midrange and let them play open on the bottom end. Below 35hz is liveable considering the lack of material that really goes much lower. I think I want to go sealed for bass because I can't build boxes where I live and I don't wanna spend the cash on buying a custom ported box, I'll use a good quality pre-made sealed but won't touch a pre-fab ported. I will just add bracing and damping.
 
Big Mike said:
I'm building a custom set, I'm thinking of using peerless midbasses for 70-700hz in the door holes with ported baffles to help restrict airspace a little and dynamat behind and in front of the baffles as well as behind the driver (not the name brand, but some sort of it). In the factory tweeter location I'm going to try some smaller fullrange drivers in the 700-2k range, and then a soft dome if I can't find some infinity EMITs on ebay. To bolster midbass, if you say it's weak, I'll probably run another set of the midbasses in the rear locations with less gain but cut them off around the upper midrange and let them play open on the bottom end. Below 35hz is liveable considering the lack of material that really goes much lower. I think I want to go sealed for bass because I can't build boxes where I live and I don't wanna spend the cash on buying a custom ported box, I'll use a good quality pre-made sealed but won't touch a pre-fab ported. I will just add bracing and damping.
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Sealed always sounds better and plays deeper then ported. Ported is really only good for hip hop and rap kinda music.
I assume you are talking about the ribbon EMITs? The round ones are chit but the old ribbons...... *drools* .... now those are speakers! Best tweeter ever IMHO but I cant find them anywhere now. Well I kinda know a place. They have one box hidden behind some MBQuarts on the shelf. New and never installed and about $300.
You will have to use the midrange till 4.5K though as thats where the EMITs need to be x-overred at and you also need to use their in-line filter even if you electronically x-over. I have blown them before using a 5k 24db x-over point and no in-line filter with as little as 30 watts (not clipping).
If you want a good mid-bass that will sound clean and hit to 60hz with no issues then I would suggest a Dynaudio 7" (baffled out 1/2" with MDF) or a Boston Z series 6.75"
When funds allow I will get the SPZ60 setup as it is one of the best I ever heard, sounded as good as Rainbows $3500 set. They are pricey at $1000 but if you shop you can find them under $600.

For optimal imaging you will want the mid-bass to stop around 400hz and have the mids take over at 350-500 hz. Have the mid-bass roll-off at 6db and the midrange at 6-12db.

As for my box its made from 3/4HDF and the front baffle is 1.5" with the box tuned at 32hz with a trans-line port style for minimal port noise. The box is glued and nailed with silicone on the seams and then a spray seal on the inside of the box. Boston knows how to make a speaker cabinet.
 
I'm a budget kinda guy, I get the biggest kick out of "bang-for-your-buck". I know expensive stuff can get the Job done, but when a $25 midbass sounds like a one that is$300+, I get tickled. All this advice and discussion is awesome because I have been out of the loop in audio far too long. I'm never gonna spend $1000 on mids in a Mark, it is kinda ghetto IMO, in a car worth only twice that much. Until I graduate and get a real job budget fun Mark VIII's are as good as it gets, one day I may go all out and build a money pit, but not yet! It's only about my enjoyment anyway, I'm not having it judged or going to compete.

I did mean infinity EMIT old-school ribbons, I had some bookshelfs with them and they were great (These were the ones I had). I meant to say 4k crossover range, I typo'd, I know ribbons can't take midrange. I cranked my EMIT's after I reconditioned them, I was alot younger back then (not that I'm not young now at 22), I didn't care if I blew 'em up, they took all I could give. They were so great to listen to, even way loud with metallica and whatnot. If I can find a set of old speakers with rotted woofers and good emits that need rebuilding that's what I'll do, I know I wont find a set of actual car audio emits anymore.
 
Got some fuel rails, fittings, and ss fuel lines ordered to go with the rest of my parts getting put on in a few weeks!
 
Big Mike said:
I'm a budget kinda guy, I get the biggest kick out of "bang-for-your-buck". I know expensive stuff can get the Job done, but when a $25 midbass sounds like a one that is$300+, I get tickled. All this advice and discussion is awesome because I have been out of the loop in audio far too long. I'm never gonna spend $1000 on mids in a Mark, it is kinda ghetto IMO, in a car worth only twice that much. Until I graduate and get a real job budget fun Mark VIII's are as good as it gets, one day I may go all out and build a money pit, but not yet! It's only about my enjoyment anyway, I'm not having it judged or going to compete.

I did mean infinity EMIT old-school ribbons, I had some bookshelfs with them and they were great (These were the ones I had). I meant to say 4k crossover range, I typo'd, I know ribbons can't take midrange. I cranked my EMIT's after I reconditioned them, I was alot younger back then (not that I'm not young now at 22), I didn't care if I blew 'em up, they took all I could give. They were so great to listen to, even way loud with metallica and whatnot. If I can find a set of old speakers with rotted woofers and good emits that need rebuilding that's what I'll do, I know I wont find a set of actual car audio emits anymore.
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x2...Hell i bought my 08 type r's for 70 shipped w/ only minor cosmetic flaws..And my amp that is a true 1400rms i got for 130 shipped. No more buying higher end stuff for me just for the name. I've found certain higher end amps use the same board as mine for hundreds more. I shop for great deals. Thats all.
 
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