Supercharging 98 Mark VIII LSC

I was looking at transmission coolers and I liked this one http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=160991929259 what do you guys think? Would this keep my transmission fluid cool?
You don't need half the stuff in that kit. It comes with engine oil cooler adapter your not messing with that. Just look up a 30K ish B&M plate
cooler and be done. Dude just search my name here for all the how to threads I have posted. It will show you like all the stuff your asking or are going to ask. LOL
 
I just picked up a fully forged 03 cobra short block with je pistons. I will post pics and recent part pick ups later. This project is a progress and it is fun
 
U can find unlocked sct tuners for cheap on ebay but youll still need to pay for a dump tune, as for your BOV I've always heard bypass valves are much more efficient probably because your not letting all your boost out into the atmosphere verse recirculating it in your intake sytem. I also heard that when you use one the MAF needs to be mounted in the charged hose because it needs to be after the BOV for proper reading with that said you don't get as smooth of readings because it's trying to get a reading from compressed air and it's not as accurate or maybe just harder to tune.
 
Thanks for the comments. I just picked up a vortech by pass valve. I will post some pics soon. Any advice would help also.
 
forged block

Here are pics of the block I picked up. 2003 cobra shortblock. bored .020 over. Clevite rod and main bearings. JE pistons with valve reliefs,8.6:1 compression *if used with 52cc chamber heads.floating wrispins. Manley/SVT H-beam Robs with ARP rod bolts. 2003 balanced cobra forged crank.

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I'm going the blow through maf route. I got some nice rear end parts coming from a member on here also. I also ordered a transmission cooler today.

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Need a '97-98 Mark VIII oil pan and pickup tube to work with the HO oil pump and your stock K-member?
 
Need a '97-98 Mark VIII oil pan and pickup tube to work with the HO oil pump and your stock K-member?

Honestly I don't know. I'm just stacking up for parts before I take it to the shop for the build. Hopefully someone will chime in and educate me.
 
You'll need either a MN12 or FN10 oil pan to fit with the stock K-member. The best option of the bunch is the '97-98 Mark VIII pan, as it offers an extra quart of capacity over the MN12 pans and it also has a reinforced gasket flange (an improvement that was added around '96, IIRC).

In order to use the HO Cobra oil pump with a MN12 or FN10 oil pan, you'll need a pickup tube from a '97-98 Mark VIII.

I figured I'd bring it up since I saw the Cobra pickup tube and windage tray in place (those won't work with a MN12 or FN10 pan). If you need the correct pan and pickup tube, I have a extra set here. Just shoot me a PM with your zip code.
 
You'll need either a MN12 or FN10 oil pan to fit with the stock K-member. The best option of the bunch is the '97-98 Mark VIII pan, as it offers an extra quart of capacity over the MN12 pans and it also has a reinforced gasket flange (an improvement that was added around '96, IIRC).

In order to use the HO Cobra oil pump with a MN12 or FN10 oil pan, you'll need a pickup tube from a '97-98 Mark VIII.

I figured I'd bring it up since I saw the Cobra pickup tube and windage tray in place (those won't work with a MN12 or FN10 pan). If you need the correct pan and pickup tube, I have a extra set here. Just shoot me a PM with your zip code.

Okay cool thanks a lot
 
What heads are you planning to run?

Man dude that is a awesome question that has been nagging me all day. I was thinking of running my b heads with minor porting. I was going to throw in some Ford fr500c cams that have a 258 duration and of course upgrade the springs and retainers. Is this a decent combo for boost? Someone please help. Thanks.
 
Quick question. Would I be able to use my stock intake or would I need to get a cobra intake? Also is the sct x3 the tuner I should get?

I would get a Cobra intake. The stock intake is garbage and will only prevent you from channeling all that boost pressure efficiently. The intake swap was worth a half second on my naturally aspirated silver Mark8 so that was enough reason for me to realize what a choking hazard it is.

If you are playing around with 8psi which is at the stock motor's limit, tuning yourself with a handheld could prove to be VERY risky. I would highly consider a professional dyno tune unless you really know what you are doing. You could simply have a timing value set wrong when you tune it and if it detonates, you could literally blow up the motor with only one wide open throttle pull.

On the Mark8s, the stock torque converter with a Vortech will flash to about 2600 rpms upon launch which is far short of where the Vortech is really beginning to make a lot of power. You are going to want a 4000ish stall converter if you want any respectable ETs on that setup at the track because it will be a dog turd out of the hole and a Centri blower puts even more lag on the entire system up to a certain point VERY much like a turbo. A mild converter will have better street manners, but you will be leaving a lot on the plate.
 
If you don't plan on spending a lot of time at the track 3200-3600 would be plenty for the street. IMHO.
B heads love boost.. If you go C heads you have other SC options for the future.
 
If you don't plan on spending a lot of time at the track 3200-3600 would be plenty for the street. IMHO.
B heads love boost.. If you go C heads you have other SC options for the future.

Okay good because I want to run my b heads but I was an more aggressive cam. I found a cheap fr500c cams that have 258 duration. I'm just trying to figure out if that cam and duration will be good for boost. I wish I had a friend that was good with this stuff. I'm glad I have this great forum to turn to for advice. Thanks
 
Okay good because I want to run my b heads but I was an more aggressive cam. I found a cheap fr500c cams that have 258 duration. I'm just trying to figure out if that cam and duration will be good for boost. I wish I had a friend that was good with this stuff. I'm glad I have this great forum to turn to for advice. Thanks

If you can't figure it out, you know what my next step would be? Just rock it. Leave the cams and heads alone. Those 2 things are not going to prevent you from going really freakin' fast, trust me.
 
I myself would go with C heads. You can get them for 100 each and run 96-98 cobra intake cams with BTR springs.(or stock springs) Mach 1 lower with a 96-98 cobra upper and adapter plate to mate both.
 
I myself would go with C heads. You can get them for 100 each and run 96-98 cobra intake cams with BTR springs.(or stock springs) Mach 1 lower with a 96-98 cobra upper and adapter plate to mate both.

How did the B-heads and stock cams work out for you on Red Dragon, Frank? LOL :rolleyes:
 

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