Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
One big plus for C heads is 9 thread sparkplug holes in heads.
One big plus for C heads is 9 thread sparkplug holes in heads.
To many plugs popping out to be operator error. Plus why would Ford change it to 9 threads if not needed? 9 thread head is big plus when boosting. If you pop a 4 thread while boosted its not a good thing to put steel inserts in. Only thing is 9 thread heads are 2004 and up. So they cost a bit more.Hmm. I thought that was only an SOHC PI engine issue with the Panthers. Plus, that whole "problem" that people make it out to be seems to me to be operator error with torque specs.
Nice!Here are pics of the block I picked up. 2003 cobra shortblock. bored .020 over. Clevite rod and main bearings. JE pistons with valve reliefs,8.6:1 compression *if used with 52cc chamber heads.floating wrispins. Manley/SVT H-beam Robs with ARP rod bolts. 2003 balanced cobra forged crank.
Hmmmm I always thought b heads were better for boost and c heads were better for n/a. I wish I could afford some 2004 cobra heads. That would be nice. After doing some research I found this info on the cams I could pick up for cheap
FR500*(M-6550-T46) Cam specs:
intake adv dur 258° @.003, 212@.050 /.472 lift
exhaust adv dur 254° @.003, 208@.050 /.472 lift
109° center line
204/214 spec’d
seems like these should be fine with boost in the b heads. I might just buy them and hope for the best.
B heads are better over 8K. C heads are better head. You can afford 2004 cobra head just buy them off an Aviator. NA SVT has said that FR500 cams have to much overlap for FI. You don't have to buy anything and hope for the best. Just google anything you want and info is out there.
Post 72For sure. So I will look for 2004 c heads. What intake is the best to run on c heads that has oval shape.
Post 72
FR500 cams installed at factory spec do have too much overlap for boost however degreed properly they work great. You can also get them at a fraction of the cost of a aftermarket set.
Just remember, you are going to buy 4 or 32 of everything for the top end of that motor.
I never claimed to be the smartest guy on the forum but I do know that a little number x a big number is a big number every time!
You don't "NEED" anything to run it. Things that you "WANT" to run it.All I need is the 1996-1998 cobra intake and fuel rails to run it right?
You don't "NEED" anything to run it. Things that you "WANT" to run it.
Lol I need to get my wording right. Okay I am trying to piece together this setup you mentioned. Would I run my mark viii exhaust cams with the 96-98 cobra intake cams? Thanks for the help.
Yes mark 8 and cobra exh cams are the same. I'm not telling you how to build your engine. Just throwing stuff out there for you to ponder. If you switch to C heads you could just run the Mach1 lower and top hat. Alot of peeps think the Mach upper intake is ugly and that's why some like to put the cobra upper hat on. (with adapter plate) Plus I was just messing with you on the wording. LOL
I myself would go with C heads. You can get them for 100 each and run 96-98 cobra intake cams with BTR springs.(or stock springs) Mach 1 lower with a 96-98 cobra upper and adapter plate to mate both.
Finding actual 96 Cobra cams would be the awesome. 96-98 has the same part#, but Ford revised them in 97, the 96 stock cam is a little more wild. You can buy cams for a 96, but it'll be the revised edition.. The only way to get the one I'm taking about, is to pull it from a 96 car
I just found complete 98 cobra heads and an 98 cobra upper intake for $150. It's a couple hour drive. Score? I'm on a mission now lol.
The cams alone go for 200-225 most of the time. Upper hats like 150ish. So 350-375 worth of stuff for 150 good deal. Just make sure the part #'s on cams are real cobra cams. People say mk8 heads are cobra heads all the time.
The valve covers are grey. I'll pull them off and check part numbers. Thanks for the tip
If he is including the Cobra VC's that's more money for you. People want those with the SVT badge on them. Also start looking for used ARP head studs. You can find these all the time. Also does your shortblock have an oil pump on it? If not start looking for a Mellings with billet gears in it. Even if it does check what pump is on there. If it does not have steel gears correct that.