This thing is cracked causing my car to overheat

Its finish took me 8 hours that's not how it was supposed to take I just don't know what im doing and actually don't even like working on cars
 
Lol this morning it was driving me Crazy and I was getting delirious I thought the bumper had to come off I just needed some rest
 
uploadfromtaptalk1436993099083.jpg this is where the crack was at towards the top if any one has any questions let me know

uploadfromtaptalk1436993099083.jpg
 
Do you think if I go to autozone they would scan the car temperature for me?? Cause I don't have a scanner
 
Do you think if I go to autozone they would scan the car temperature for me?? Cause I don't have a scanner

I think they would try for you, but the odds are low that the scanner they would use would be able to pull live Ford sensor readings.
 
So where can I get a scanner from and how much do they cost and is the fan supposed to be on while the car is parked idling I am trying to bleed the system and once the needle got to the middle between hot and cold the fan came on
 
If the AC is off and the engine has not reached temperature, I would expect the fan to remain off. If the AC is on, the fan will always be running at some speed. (I have never had the AC off, so I can't say from experience. I can't understand why anyone would ever turn the AC off.)
My scan tool was around $400, but I think that there are some that are much cheaper that can at least read the live data. I've heard that some of the Bluetooth adapters used with a smart phone can be a good deal. but I haven't tried it.
 
The defrost was on because that's what the bleed procedure said to do and looks like I won't be getting a scanner
 
torque is a cheap phone app, and you can get a cheap BT ODB2 dongle for $20-$30...

if you're looking for something to read basic codes and a lot of live sensors, it really doesnt get much cheaper than that...
 
Well the car is still overheating no I can't drive it at all I was able to drive it with the cracked radiator makes me think maybe I put the radiator in wrong or messed something up or it might be the water outlet considering I got it from napa auto parts I will order a new one from ford auto part giant and hopefully this fixes the problem
 
Do you have any way (contact or non-contact thermometer) to get readings of the upper and lower radiator hose temperatures when it is running hot? Take each as close to the radiator as possible.
If the upper hose is too cool, then coolant isn't circulating enough (thermostat, air pockets, water pump, ...). If the lower hose is too hot then either there is an airflow problem or some issue with the radiator.

If you put the climate control on max heat and fan, does that cool the engine some or at least stop the temperature from going higher?
 
I don't have no type of thermometer and yes when I turn the heat on the temperature goes down and I realised all the freeon from the car is freeon part of the cooling system??
 
...and I realised all the freeon from the car is freeon part of the cooling system??

Sorry, I can't really parse that...

The refrigerant that the LS uses is R-134a, Suva. This is true of most cars since the late 90s. Before that the refrigerant used in cars was R-12, Freon.
The AC refrigerant system does not cool the engine at all, in fact it warms it some.

The heater will cool the engine because the heater core is really just a small radiator.
 
What if the new radiator that I put in is bad what are the chances of that happening because I drove 40 minutes with the cracked radiator and the gauge "looked" fine
 
The odds are very low.

Be very specific. List every part that you have replaced trying to fix this issue (include the brand of the replacement part).
 
I was just wondering cause after I put this new radiator in I can't even drive up the street with out it overheating and I was able to drive 40+ minutes with the cracked one maybe it the water outlet that part is kinda suspect
 

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