What did you do to your Mark VIII today?

Installed stock shifter, fixed cell phone antenna, installed new negative disconnect and negative terminal.
 
LaserSVT said:
:lol: I always laugh at that commercial right after I cringe from the G35 hitting it.

Sorry to hear that STU. Is it a stock wheel or aftermarket? There is a place in Dallas that can straighten almost any wheel for $75 but if its a stock one I am sure you can get a fresh one for cheaper.
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Its aftermarket and no longer in production. So 75 dollars sounds good. What is the name of the place?
 
Replaced the air filter and cleand the MAF, wow what a differance. The car doesn't fall on it's face anymore and now I know what you guys are talking about.
 
Went to friends at AutoTrendz car show and snuck into line for the DB Drags.
Did better than I thought I would seeing as my system is stock with the only additions being a HU to the stock Amp and then a 13W7 with a 1000/1 amp :D
SPL.jpg
 
Thats very good for a trunk mounted single sub. If it was a hatchback or SUV you would prolly be 2db higher.
I was trying to do mine the other day but the db meter in my phone peaks at 125 so it just kept erroring. :(
 
LaserSVT said:
Thats very good for a trunk mounted single sub. If it was a hatchback or SUV you would prolly be 2db higher.
I was trying to do mine the other day but the db meter in my phone peaks at 125 so it just kept erroring. :(
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Yeah my friend who is gonna be the owner of this shop one day told me it should have been a 140 with the Amp and Sub I am running. I was like gimme a break I haven't taken any sound deadening out from behind the seat.

At least I was fairly high up as compared to some of the cars there that looked a bit more serious than what I threw together :rolleyes:
 
W3z2

Yes... just purchased the W3Z2 ECU...as soon as I get it I am going to the track for some testing....yes.
 
Tried to get motivated Sunday to accoplish something but it didn't work very well. Messed around w/ my Light switch panel and fixed that. Went to the hardware store to pick up some install parts for the under trunk tray. Thats it..


And a new family of birds now lives above my car so I get to look at fresh bird sh!t on my car every day. There is no safe place in my driveway. Hopefully they'll just leave.
 
started ripping my air suspension out, going to coils front bags are shot =/ 2 year old compressor and 2 year old OEM rear bags though that will be going up for sale here pretty quick. will trade em for a amp to power my 15 in my jimmy, my amp hit the :q:q:q:qs yesterday :(
 
Got my replacement intercept board for my ASHAM today and installed it. Now I can make the car go up and down again. :D
 
Got bored earlier and finally put on the new Gates belt that I bought back in October before I drove to Florida. The old one was making a slight noise almost twice a second during idle. Now it's all quiet. R&R in under 2 min. :shifty:
 
cleaned the mass air. a thick layer of black gunk all over it. gross. runs a bit better now. o2s next.
 
NoLimit95 said:
I see at least 1, maybe 2 amps that will be over heating and shutting off. Heatsinks mounted upside down in a hot trunk = cut off.
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Not true. If an amp has force cooling then it does not matter. Class D does not matter. A well made class AB does not matter. Only lower end amps and class A does that become an issue. Amps can still dissipate at near 90% efficiency as if they were right side up.
Its been in the 90's here and I pound the hell out of the stereo. My amps are upside down and I am pushing near 3000 watts. No issues at all. Hell, my class D amps don't even bear a sweat and the class AB is never too hot to touch.
 
LaserSVT said:
Not true. If an amp has force cooling then it does not matter. Class D does not matter. A well made class AB does not matter. Only lower end amps and class A does that become an issue. Amps can still dissipate at near 90% efficiency as if they were right side up.
Its been in the 90's here and I pound the hell out of the stereo. My amps are upside down and I am pushing near 3000 watts. No issues at all. Hell, my class D amps don't even bear a sweat and the class AB is never too hot to touch.
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I'm assuming you know what those amps are when you say well made? I'm seeing a Pioneer amp in there too and that's a Wal-Mart amp. I could only imagine what the other two are. Class D, yes, they can pretty much be mounted in different ways and I don't see and haven't seen any mention of a fan being put in that contraption back there. The most common ventilation method, convection cooling, also happens to be the simplest – and provisions for it are built into most car amplifiers. Convection cooling works like this: As the amplifier heats up, warm air is transferred to cooling fins, usually part of an aluminum heat sink on top of the amp chassis. The fins radiate the heat into the air, where it dissipates. As the warm air rises, it's replaced by cooler air that's sucked upward from beneath the amplifier, and it is this continuous circulation of cool air that prevents the amp from overheating. Convection cooling works fine as long as the warm air can dissipate and cool air can move in. Amplifiers should never be mounted in an air-tight enclosure. Instead, mount them on a vertical surface (when possible) in an open space, preferably with their fins running vertically rather than horizontally and never facing downward.

Not trying to argue but amps with fins on the top being mounted upside down, isn't very good and if a fan is being placed back there, then there shouldn't be a problem. I still wouldn't do it and I surely don't want a fan in my trunk running all the time. Seriously Bill, would you mount all of your equipment like that?
 
fastmark1993 said:
started ripping my air suspension out, going to coils front bags are shot =/ 2 year old compressor and 2 year old OEM rear bags though that will be going up for sale here pretty quick. will trade em for a amp to power my 15 in my jimmy, my amp hit the :q:q:q:qs yesterday :(
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I'd be interested in buying those rear bags from you if the amp trade doesn't pan out. Got a slow leak in one of mine, figure best replace em both.
 
Drove the '97 LSC to work again today. It's mine now:D Looked at the '96 sitting at the end of the road with a for sale sign in the windshield. So far, it's been for sale a couple of weeks and I've only gotten one bite. And that guy wanted to pay me in installments:eek: Nope. I'm thinking I may put it up in the for sale section on this site. I really hate to let her go, but we need the money more than the car right now. Anybody interested?:)
 
thaywood said:
I'm thinking I may put it up in the for sale section on this site. I really hate to let her go, but we need the money more than the car right now. Anybody interested?:)
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Did you post it in the For Sale Thread? It would not hurt to do it if you need it gone. ;)
 
Bought the rest of my front suspension components from Rock Auto consisting of inner and outer tie rod ends, strut rod bushings, sway bar end links and sway bar bushings. I already have the upper and lower control arms. After I get that done I will be sensor lowering it and then getting the small amount of body work it needs done.
 
NoLimit95 said:
I'm assuming you know what those amps are when you say well made? I'm seeing a Pioneer amp in there too and that's a Wal-Mart amp. I could only imagine what the other two are. Class D, yes, they can pretty much be mounted in different ways and I don't see and haven't seen any mention of a fan being put in that contraption back there. The most common ventilation method, convection cooling, also happens to be the simplest – and provisions for it are built into most car amplifiers. Convection cooling works like this: As the amplifier heats up, warm air is transferred to cooling fins, usually part of an aluminum heat sink on top of the amp chassis. The fins radiate the heat into the air, where it dissipates. As the warm air rises, it's replaced by cooler air that's sucked upward from beneath the amplifier, and it is this continuous circulation of cool air that prevents the amp from overheating. Convection cooling works fine as long as the warm air can dissipate and cool air can move in. Amplifiers should never be mounted in an air-tight enclosure. Instead, mount them on a vertical surface (when possible) in an open space, preferably with their fins running vertically rather than horizontally and never facing downward.

Not trying to argue but amps with fins on the top being mounted upside down, isn't very good and if a fan is being placed back there, then there shouldn't be a problem. I still wouldn't do it and I surely don't want a fan in my trunk running all the time. Seriously Bill, would you mount all of your equipment like that?
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I dont know what he has, nothing looks special in there. I was refering to your comment, not his install. I have been doing systems a long time and never heard of "convection cooling" in an amp before. I have heard of convection ovens. I have heard of liquid cooling systems for amps. But thats it.

convection /con·vec·tion/ (kon-vek´shun) the act of conveying or transmission, specifically transmission of heat in a liquid or gas by bulk movement of heated particles to a cooler area.convec´tive
 
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