What did you do to your Mark VIII today?

Just ordered some Duralast UCA's for home delivery so I got a 20% discount. Can't believe how shot these things are with 69k on the clock :confused:
 
Sapperfire said:
I can see it now all bunched up at the opening , what exactly did you use?? The tape in a white roll??
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Yeah. It was the white teflon tape. But I think I may have put too much on there. I wrapped one layer on the first time and then started the car and it was still leaking badly. So I took it back out, wrapped another layer on and put it back in. That's when the housing broke off in my hand. I apparently put the teflon on too thick and that's why it bunched up.

Also may have found another adapter. One of my mechanic friends messaged me on FB that he has one at his shop. I'm going to go by and check after work. And if it's the right one, I'll have the ol' girl back on the road before the end of the week. :)
 
Well it looks like the part that my friend had maybe not work. It's off of a 1998 Ford pickup. The gasket is a little bit different. I'm going to get a gasket for the 98 pick up and see if it will fit on my car. Does anyone think it will work?
 
thaywood said:
Well it looks like the part that my friend had maybe not work. It's off of a 1998 Ford pickup. The gasket is a little bit different. I'm going to get a gasket for the 98 pick up and see if it will fit on my car. Does anyone think it will work?
Click to expand...

nm
 
thaywood said:
Well it looks like the part that my friend had maybe not work. It's off of a 1998 Ford pickup. The gasket is a little bit different. I'm going to get a gasket for the 98 pick up and see if it will fit on my car. Does anyone think it will work?
Click to expand...

Looks the like only difference in the gaskets is the lower left portion has more of a seal. By looking at it, it seems like the f150 has a bigger base on the block.
 
Spree said:
TERRY MAN!...I LOVE YOU!...This worker perfectly! Not sure why! (I really didn't think this would work)...Did everything just like posted (pics included). It was ice raining when I tried this.
Dam....you are (BAD A$$!)
I was planning on a new blower motor and the time to do it. but with this fix....it worked perfectly!!!! The blower, blow's like a wind tunnel!
I removed the wire because of the ice rain, you can see on the seat (and took it into a heated environment).
I'm gonna give you a BIG frick'n kiss when I meet you in person!!!

Chalk up another fix to the GOOD people here on LVC!!!!

I have heat again!!! total cost....NOTH'N!
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I'm glad to see that worked out for you Spree. I don't need the kiss though lol. :p
 
sbcaprice305 said:
Any update (pics ;) ) of the 5ch install?
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Yes, I just done it last night and had to remove the sub box that weighs an easy 200 pounds or more. I had to rewire the subs from a 6 ohm load to a 1.33 ohm load. The Polk can handle a 1 ohm load and the Kicker amp was only good for as low as a 2 ohm load. So I got that done and all subs are wired with 8 gauge wire inside in a parallel configuration and the two wires come out of the box and directly to the amps sub output +/- and it is pounding so much cleaner. The inside speakers, JL Audio in the doors and Kicker in the rear are hitting very well and hitting high notes with near perfectness. Class D really made a big difference compared to what I was using. I never would have expected that amp, being as small as it is, to put out the sound that it puts out. It does not lack any power, for me anyway and it sounds very very good. The only thing I didn't connect was the bass knob. I really don't feel like I need it because the sound is spot on and I don't need anything extra inside my console to be digging for while driving. All I really have is 2 pics. One with just the amp, way up in the back of the trunk and then another with the sub box inside. I was limping by the time I got done and me and the son took it for a drive to get away from the neighbors and it sounds wonderful. Good things do come in small packages. Every song on my iPod Touch has been converted to all AAC & MP4 and I could tell a difference with that too. I'll add the two pics shortly. Not on photobucket yet.

2013-03-10203001_zpsc0fc4abb.jpg


2013-03-10203102_zpsc54d9e60.jpg


2013-03-10203548_zpsa8fa6f04.jpg
 
NoLimit95 said:
Yes, I just done it last night and had to remove the sub box that weighs an easy 200 pounds or more. I had to rewire the subs from a 6 ohm load to a 1.33 ohm load. The Polk can handle a 1 ohm load and the Kicker amp was only good for as low as a 2 ohm load. So I got that done and all subs are wired with 8 gauge wire inside in a parallel configuration and the two wires come out of the box and directly to the amps sub output +/- and it is pounding so much cleaner. The inside speakers, JL Audio in the doors and Kicker in the rear are hitting very well and hitting high notes with near perfectness. Class D really made a big difference compared to what I was using. I never would have expected that amp, being as small as it is, to put out the sound that it puts out. It does not lack any power, for me anyway and it sounds very very good. The only thing I didn't connect was the bass knob. I really don't feel like I need it because the sound is spot on and I don't need anything extra inside my console to be digging for while driving. All I really have is 2 pics. One with just the amp, way up in the back of the trunk and then another with the sub box inside. I was limping by the time I got done and me and the son took it for a drive to get away from the neighbors and it sounds wonderful. Good things do come in small packages. Every song on my iPod Touch has been converted to all AAC & MP4 and I could tell a difference with that too. I'll add the two pics shortly. Not on photobucket yet.
Click to expand...

It must be nice to simplify that wiring and whatnot too. All around cleaner setup :)

Glad you like it. :)
 
sbcaprice305 said:
It must be nice to simplify that wiring and whatnot too. All around cleaner setup :)

Glad you like it. :)
Click to expand...

You just don't know how much wire I got rid of... I had a mess under that spare tire cover. I did leave the JL Audio distribution block connected but I took one power wire out of it. I have 2 gauge coming from the battery and runs into the trunk and then goes into a single in, dual out JL Audio dist block that has 4 gauge outlets. I removed one of those wires and now RCA's and speaker wires are all behind the seat, instead of being in the tub. The amp wouldn't accept 2 gauge or I would have removed the block all together. 4 gauge is as low as the amp would take. I'm more than satisfied with it though. Class D digital sound and putting out true power for the price I got it at, I'm happy. :)

2013-03-07123450_zps3053d06c.jpg


Terminals are nickel plated and the ANL fuse holder is platinum plated, something like that... The terminals have never once attempted to corrode. I used terminals just like these in the 94 when I had it and they always worked out good. I went ahead and got two more when I got the 95. I keep the allen wrench on the inner fender for the terminals if I ever need to loosen them. Right under the rubber to the left, it's just barely out of the pic but that's where it stays clamped down.
 
2002WRXSTi said:
Just ordered some Duralast UCA's for home delivery so I got a 20% discount. Can't believe how shot these things are with 69k on the clock :confused:
Click to expand...
what type UCA's wore out after just 69k? I'm fixig to r/r some front end components along with coil convert on my white...109k miles, all orig front end susp
 
NoLimit95 said:
I bet I have just the needle nose you need for that.
Click to expand...

Not bad but there are better ways.

I have an old Craftsman dremel like thing. I put a little wheel on it and just reach up and slice those clamps. Very slick and easy. It has saved me many hours.
 
I got at that clamp without too much trouble with a super long needle nose pliers. You can also spend around $60 and get the tool with the cable thingy.
 
NoLimit95 said:
You just don't know how much wire I got rid of... I had a mess under that spare tire cover. I did leave the JL Audio distribution block connected but I took one power wire out of it. I have 2 gauge coming from the battery and runs into the trunk and then goes into a single in, dual out JL Audio dist block that has 4 gauge outlets. I removed one of those wires and now RCA's and speaker wires are all behind the seat, instead of being in the tub. The amp wouldn't accept 2 gauge or I would have removed the block all together. 4 gauge is as low as the amp would take. I'm more than satisfied with it though. Class D digital sound and putting out true power for the price I got it at, I'm happy. :)

Terminals are nickel plated and the ANL fuse holder is platinum plated, something like that... The terminals have never once attempted to corrode. I used terminals just like these in the 94 when I had it and they always worked out good. I went ahead and got two more when I got the 95. I keep the allen wrench on the inner fender for the terminals if I ever need to loosen them. Right under the rubber to the left, it's just barely out of the pic but that's where it stays clamped down.
Click to expand...

Man the trunk looks much better (now that I can see the pics.) :hump:

Kudos to you sir.
 
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