What did you do to your Mark VIII today?

PenGun said:
No it's RR, LF. LR, RF. You can try bleeding with the key on and hope the ABS pushes some air out.
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You always start with the caliper farthest away from master cylinder and work your way forward so Passenger Rear, Drivers Rear , Passenger Front , Drivers Front would be correct.
 
so I replaced the other rear caliper early this morning, then came back to it after lunch, I got a vacuum pump/tester (with cannister) to bleed the system, one caliper at a time, 2 rounds...pretty sure it is bled adequately;
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the problem:
I'm a cheap sob- i got the 4 rotors from my brown mark VIII turned to use on the white car, they are all near the min width; new wagner pads in the rear and reused existing front pads (appear to have about 35-50% remaining)...now the front sounds like metal on metal, sever grinding, and it sounds like the calipers (dunno which ones) are not fully relaxing when the pedal is released- I will soon be replacing front rotors and pads: prolly EBC's and thermo quiet pads...HOPEFULLY not replacing calipers
 
Got a nice little ding in the fender and washed it. That ding ruined everything though, how it and the surrounding scuff marks got there i'll never know.

Time to go car shopping.
 
Hey saggy I just converted to springs and have OEM mtotcraft fronts bought in sealed box with about 6k on them for sale, also rears a couple years old real cheap.( rears rel cheap.) Let me know if interested or anyone else. Have pics etc.
 
Well, the future ex got her Cobra back from the shop. I don't know what they did to it to make it run. I quit dealing with it a couple of weeks ago and told her to handle it since it's her car :D Problem is when she got it back they had left the d/s window cracked and there was water in the seat and floor from all the torrential downpours we've been having lately. And the rear window has come unglued and there was water behind the back seat. I told her to take it to an upholstery shop and get it fixed because I'm tired of dealing with that damn car. On the plus side, they didn't charge her anything.

As for the Mark, haven't done much with it lately because of the crappy weather we've been having. But I've got the '97 home so I can start swapping parts around. And my plug wires should be here today or tomorrow. Then I'm doing a seafoam treatment and going to start on the exhaust swap and wheels. She'll be awesome(er) in a week or so. :)

And I'm debating on whether to try to repair the age cracks in the leather with some filler and dye or to just get some seat covers. Obviously seat covers would be easier, but I've never liked them. I prefer to see the factory leather as opposed to covering it up. I can either get a leather seat cover kit for about $50 or a cloth kit for $30 on fleabay. Or I can get some leather repair and colorant kits on fleabay for about $40 for enough to do both front buckets and the back seat. So we'll see. I'll have to wait until either next payday or after I sell some more stuff off the '97 and see what kind of money I have left. :)
 
Epwillis said:
You always start with the caliper farthest away from master cylinder and work your way forward so Passenger Rear, Drivers Rear , Passenger Front , Drivers Front would be correct.
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No. It's two diagonal systems joined by the proportion valve. The RR and LF are on one circuit and the LR and RF are on the other.

The manual is your friend.
 
Lownslowlsc said:
Got a nice little ding in the fender and washed it. That ding ruined everything though, how it and the surrounding scuff marks got there i'll never know.

Time to go car shopping.
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Better be another mark damnit!! Lol..there's some clean ones out there on craigs right now..there's a nice 96 black on black LSC on the milwaukee c list at the moment..maybe ill post it in the craigslist finds...you know you wanna join the 1st gen clan.
 
PenGun said:
No. It's two diagonal systems joined by the proportion valve. The RR and LF are on one circuit and the LR and RF are on the other.

The manual is your friend.
Click to expand...
I went: RR,LR, RF,LF...then back around again, same sequence...clear/light yellowish fluid coming through everywhere
 
keVIIIn said:
Better be another mark damnit!! Lol..there's some clean ones out there on craigs right now..there's a nice 96 black on black LSC on the milwaukee c list at the moment..maybe ill post it in the craigslist finds...you know you wanna join the 1st gen clan.
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I'm just pissed cause there's literally 1 other little ding by the fuel door on the entire car. Amazing for a 16yo car. Not to say theres not any other minor paint blems, I just loved the fact that I've been able to keep it ding free for the last 6 years.

I'd rather buy a Miata than to be caught driving a gen1..
 
Lownslowlsc said:
I'm just pissed cause there's literally 1 other little ding by the fuel door on the entire car. Amazing for a 16yo car. Not to say theres not any other minor paint blems, I just loved the fact that I've been able to keep it ding free for the last 6 years.

I'd rather buy a Miata than to be caught driving a gen1..
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Oooo..ooo damn..that's cold braj
 
Lownslowlsc said:
I'd rather buy a Miata than to be caught driving a gen1..
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samuel_L_Jackson-1.gif
 
dnsherrill said:
I went: RR,LR, RF,LF...then back around again, same sequence...clear/light yellowish fluid coming through everywhere
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Well done. I bought a pressure bleeder and can make fluid come out of any open bleeder or fitting.

Doing it right works quite well. The, well Ill try this method, does not work as well for me. YMMV.
 
put some miles on it
0701193818_zpscc93eacc.jpg

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after work, came home and found the front brake pad I put on backwards yesterday, replaced it and the rotor it destroyed :shifty:
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I guess that's what I get for being in a hurry and thinking about other stuff while working on my car
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ordered some rotors (EBC UPR7026) and pads (Wagner MX598 Thermoquiets)
 
Lownslowlsc said:
....
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Lol its all good..as for those dings..that's easily fixable. You should have seen mine when I bought it..sh*t was hideous, I got it fixed by a pdr guy..he found about 100+ dings (literally) over the whole car..ones that I didn't even notice..got all of them fixed with the exception of two minor ones on the roof that he couldn't get to without removing the headliner. But he did an awsome job, you'd never be able to tell there were ever dings anywhere on the car. And they can get to almost any part of the car..getting behind the gas door area is easy.
 
I went on a short trip and finally hit 122,000 miles just three miles from home. It will be over a year, maybe less before I hit 123K. I don't get it out as much as I used to.

8K miles since Jan 2010...
 
Installed passenger side handle on roof, I call it the 'holy **** handle' lol. Cleaned my dash and console and all other plastic spots with Armoral Protectant and cleaned all the glass inside as well as a nice wash for the outside. Started to tear apart old ABS pump to fix up and ordered some LED lights for the interior. Also tore the door panel off to get my door pad entry code, checked trunk first but that code was removed. More work to come!

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
 
Does anyone use just some soap and water in a spray bottle to clean the int panels or am I the only one?
 
dnsherrill said:
after work, came home and found the front brake pad I put on backwards yesterday, replaced it and the rotor it destroyed :shifty:
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I guess that's what I get for being in a hurry and thinking about other stuff while working on my car
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Did the same thing doing front brake at 10:30 at night at the end of my driveway with no lights to see what I was doing. Found it at work the next day and I work out of state :rolleyes:
 
my 93 does. pre chip and post chip.
there is a slight clunk with the chip though. as the fuel injectors shut down and the display goes to 99.
the stock fuel cutoff was a little smoother.
 
My Great 8 said:
You don't have to drive it downhill to make it display that. Doing 70 mph on the highway and shutting off the cruise will do that. I was surprised by that myself. My 93 doesn't do that.
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My '96 would do that too. So far it's still showing 25.5mpg average :) And that's driving about 35 miles a day to work and back. Not bad at all. I've got the next three days off and the weather looks pretty good tomorrow and Friday so I should be able to get some work done on the car. My plug wires should be here today or tomorrow and I'll hopefully I can get the exhaust, wheels, and rear air springs changed out this week.
 
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