harsh transmission shifts

I put him on my ignore list a long time ago. Maybe you should too...
 
after doing some reading on solenoids and PCMs I think I should get the PCM flashed at the dealership

does the PCM not fully get flashed when the battery is disconnected? (disconnecting the battery does solve my problem for a few days) what the does the dealership do?

are there any PCM firmware updates for 04 LS to address harsh shifting issues??
 
Prior but did not fix problem, replacing the solenoid assmbly did. Good Luck
 
joegr said:
I put him on my ignore list a long time ago. Maybe you should too...
Click to expand...

you put me on your ignore list bc you are sometimes wrong and i am one of the few ppl to point out when you are.
 
lking said:
it sure is

so tell me why does the transmission shift harshly when put into drive or reverse? the car is in idle not much stress on the coils

if I remember correctly i did have a bad coil once and I only felt the misfire when the car was in idle not in drive or when it was shifting and there was gas smell also and my engine light was on at the time i have none of these symptoms now


your telling me the coils misfire when the car shifts gears to try and get me to change the coils for nothing so i waste my money
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if the car is running there is stress on the coils smart guy. read the service manual. there are a million sensors/components that factor into a shift. ignition coils are just as important as all of the others. and yours are s_hit. the fact that no one here has told you that they are s_hit is semi-comical.
 
lking said:
heres what another member had to say about your bogus advice

"I don't know where you get your material but it is generally bogus. You don't need to periodically calibrate the transmission, or relearn the battery. RED's symptoms were classic for a solenoid failure. I had one fail on my '00 at around 90K miles. Still in warranty but I stupidly followed what your advise was and ended up having to have it done on my dime as I waited too long.

RED, the recall was for the valve body, NOT the solenoid pack. There was a needle valve that wasn't machined correctly (I got to see one at the trans factory in '03) and had a bur on the end, causing it to stick. " LS4me
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A. i never told that guy to do anything that close to a warranty.
B. that guy has replaced how many solenoids? prolly bc he follows his own dumb advice and runs his tranny out of spec and wrecks his solenoid.

believe what you want to believe bud.
ive never told anyone here to waste a dime.
take your s hit to lincoln for $100 and get it diagnosed. anybody here who thinks your coils wont fail a stress test is smokin the crack pipe given the symptoms you described and the mileage of your current coils.
 
lking said:
after doing some reading on solenoids and PCMs I think I should get the PCM flashed at the dealership

does the PCM not fully get flashed when the battery is disconnected? (disconnecting the battery does solve my problem for a few days) what the does the dealership do?

are there any PCM firmware updates for 04 LS to address harsh shifting issues??
Click to expand...

"Flashing" is different than resetting the learned parameters in RAM (disconnecting the battery). Flashing is putting a new program or new parameters into the FLASH memory.

If you have harsh engagement from park to reverse and from reverse through to drive, then it is almost certainly the solenoid assembly.
 
I just received my solenoid pack from tascaparts is it normal for it to have transmission fluid all over? there's fluid in the bag and part like it was takin out of a transmission put inside the bag and shipped
 
lking said:
I just received my solenoid pack from tascaparts is it normal for it to have transmission fluid all over? there's fluid in the bag and part like it was takin out of a transmission put inside the bag and shipped
Click to expand...

Yes, it would be bad if it didn't. Don't open it and let it dry out before you install it.
 
joegr said:
If you have harsh engagement from park to reverse and from reverse through to drive, then it is almost certainly the solenoid assembly.
Click to expand...

wrong.
he has harsh engagement bc he keeps disconnecting the battery w/o getting rid of p1000. its never learning how to 'engage' period. its too cold in canada to get rid of p1000 this time of year. end of story.

unless there is a sequel to the story, that has something to do with lking trying to use the shift lever before the car has dropped its rpm from initial startup (15 seconds usually, but sometimes longer when its cold like it is all winter in canada). in these instances it will always engage rough.
 
jrand said:
wrong.
he has harsh engagement bc he keeps disconnecting the battery w/o getting rid of p1000. its never learning how to 'engage' period. its too cold in canada to get rid of p1000 this time of year. end of story.

unless there is a sequel to the story, that has something to do with lking trying to use the shift lever before the car has dropped its rpm from initial startup (15 seconds usually, but sometimes longer when its cold like it is all winter in canada). in these instances it will always engage rough.
Click to expand...

I'ts the solenoid assmbly. You seem to think resetting will overcome a defective device. I tried going that route along with a PCM reflash. My car shifts perfect now after replacing the solenoids,and I know the mech did not do a drive cycle to reset/relearn anything. My p100 cleared after 130 mi. of normal driving during the winter.
 
no i think he has coil issues at the forefront of all of his problems. read about his coils above and tell me he doesnt need to replace them all in the next 3-5k.
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yea the car will just bypass the sensor calibrations if you drive it long enough without calibrating correctly and p1000 will go away. just bc the code is gone doesnt mean your car is calibrated as best as it can be. if you like the way yours is driving and you are happy with it dont touch it, but just know that it can and will bypass tests if it has to
 
harsh shifting has improved a lot since changing the rear differential fluid so much so that I'm having second thought about replacing the solenoid might be overkill
 
after taking out the 7 long bolts from the solenoid pack am I supposed to just yank it out? or are there other bolts??

I tried pulling it out but seems to be stuck
 
I removed all bolts still wont come out

"Remove the solenoid body screws and remove the solenoid body by lifting on the body and pushing the connector from the other side of the case."

what other side??

so I push and pull at the same time??? lol
 
IIRC, there is a bolt holding on the electrical connector. There is one bolt that is a bear to remove.
 
the electrical connecter you mean the round part with the pins inside and then something in the middle of that

how can I unscrew this bolt I cant even see it
 
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