new owner / 2000 ls

these off of ebay -

$(KGrHqZHJDIE+F9K1ZthBQK+E,cvYQ~~60_12.jpg
 
Not sure about those, hopefully, they're good! I went through a bunch of Mevotech $75 knuckles and their ball joints all lasted around 6 months. That's some scary reliability! I think I ended up doing two on each side before I blasted Moog problem solver ball joints into them.
 
meh, i'll run them and see how they last. i do simple commutes with the occasional
road trip, so this car doesnt get beat on in the least bit.

if i get 20k - 30k miles out of them, i'm happy.
 
yeah, with a full shop at disposal, it really doesn't take long to swap those
parts out, and i may end up putting some eibach springs on here anyway,
so not really that big of a deal.
 
elephantrider said:
yeah, with a full shop at disposal, it really doesn't take long to swap those
parts out, and i may end up putting some eibach springs on here anyway,
so not really that big of a deal.
Click to expand...

I forgot to mention it recently, but my eibachs dropped the car about 1.75" all around. I remember the other day it was assumed that the drop was closer to an inch only. 7 years later, the rears were so low that I was riding on the cut down spring bump stop rubbers inside the shocks over anything minor. Granted, I carry tools and garage supplies in my trunk, the past couple of years, so mine was going to be lower than a car with a clean trunk. I put around 185K miles on the springs. I just swapped my rears back to stock, now the car is showing almost a perfect level with the fronts still on eibachs.

BTW great shop you work in!
 
okay, well... got all of the r&r done on the ls today. with exception
of getting the rear brakes back together. bought a full set of new
rotors / pads. the entire front end swap took us close to 4hrs total.

then we ran into the "trying to push the rear piston back into the
caliper so we could fit it around the new rotors and pads. found out
the hard way that you need a special tool to rotate the piston counter-
clockwise, all while pushing the piston in.

let me be the first to say - thats effing retarted - anyway, will finish up
tomorrow after getting the required tool, and will post pics of the jobs
tomorrow.
 
elephantrider said:
......found out
the hard way that you need a special tool to rotate the piston counter-
clockwise, all while pushing the piston in.

let me be the first to say - thats effing retarted - anyway, will finish up
tomorrow after getting the required tool, and will post pics of the jobs
tomorrow.
Click to expand...

A simple search would have yielded this information. It's also necissated to allow for the stock caliper to double as the parking/emergency brake. Were you to install the Stoptech big brake kit you would need to add a small caliper to be the emergency/parking brake. IIRC, GM uses a drum brake inside the rotor for this purpose.
 
of course a simple search on here would have yielded the info. but what wasnt yielded
was me thinking that the rear brake system would be any different than any of the
other hundreds of ford and gm brakes jobs i've done ;)

not installing any kind of big brake kit, just new rotors / pads. anywho, off to get the
correct tool and will finish all of it up today !
 
elephantrider said:
... but what wasnt yielded
was me thinking that the rear brake system would be any different than any of the
other hundreds of ford and gm brakes jobs i've done ;)...
Click to expand...


This brake
setup is fairly common
on
many recent
vintage cars.
 
joegr said:
This brake
setup is fairly common
on
many recent
vintage cars.
Click to expand...

I was going to say, I've came across more than a couple of calipers that needed to be screwed back in.






also kind of wondering how small of a monitor or what the resolution is set to where you would hit the return key somewhere between 13/ to 1/2 way across the page?
I wonder if this monitor also only shows the color green... J/K LOL
 
Always a first time for something, no doubt. Anyway
we ended up just replacing both rear calipers due to
on slide pin froze THEE fak up. Cleaned up the brackets then reinstalled. About finished up now!
 
wow. what a marathon. car drives like an absolute dream now. no clunks, knocks,
bumps or anything. everything went well for the most part, and next items on the
list will be rear upper / lower arms. task at hand now is to find out why the traction
control light is blinking. all of the abs system reset, so not sure. will do some research
on here as well. its funny that it has affected the cruise control. it will set, but then
turn itself off out of nowhere. pics will be up tomorrow.
 
elephantrider said:
we ended up just replacing both rear calipers due to
on slide pin froze THEE fak up.
Click to expand...

now because of past problem with this, as part of every brake job I do, I always replace all the little boots. I've seen so many crack and split then let crap get in there and rust it up. just better to a few extra bucks
 
^ absolutely. i bought the rear calipers that have the full rebuild kit ( new sliders, boots, and bolts ),
so should be good!
 
...so just a few pics of the work we did over the wknd. the driver side
rear caliper was one silly beotch.

20150110_125507_zpsa0c0eeeb.jpg


20150110_134445_RichtoneHDR_zps983e948c.jpg


20150110_131848_RichtoneHDR_zpsc29d231a.jpg


20150110_181513_RichtoneHDR_zps4639f844.jpg


20150110_181446_RichtoneHDR_zpsb7a306b4.jpg


20150111_145141_RichtoneHDR_zps3984d15b.jpg


20150110_151549_RichtoneHDR_zps306ab7ea.jpg


vacuum speed bleed !

20150111_150051_zpsad247587.jpg


20150111_145837_RichtoneHDR_zps621e6bc5.jpg
 
I forgot...... What shocks are those? Is that the Jaguar shock/spring combo??
 
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