Timing Chain Teardown Time

The power steering pump is on the driver's side. That's the hydraulic fan pump on the passenger side.
 
i'm in the same process and this thread is great info. does the AC unit have to come completely out or can i leave it in under charge and manipulate it around enough to undo the ac mount bracket?
 
n82b said:
i'm in the same process and this thread is great info. does the AC unit have to come completely out or can i leave it in under charge and manipulate it around enough to undo the ac mount bracket?
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You can just move the compressor to the side in order to swap timing assembly. No need to disconnect lines & lose freon.
 
Hey all, does anyone have anything to add to this thread since it's last comment was in 2013? I am wanting to tackle this job on my 2000 LS myself. How about where to buy parts....oem or aftermarket? Any more words of help will be would be awesome. I suppose I will be needing to by the cam and crank lock tools as well.
 
sleepers said:
Hey all, does anyone have anything to add to this thread since it's last comment was in 2013? I am wanting to tackle this job on my 2000 LS myself. How about where to buy parts....oem or aftermarket? Any more words of help will be would be awesome. I suppose I will be needing to by the cam and crank lock tools as well.
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Not sure if an add or just my experience here. I bought both secondary timing chains and tensioners from Christophers Foreign Car Parts online. I replaced them both by removing the exhaust cam. Rental tools were $100 bucks locally. Later when I replaced both master chains, 4 guides and 2 tensions purchased from Rock Auto for $171.99 I didn't use any special tools since I didn't have to remove the secondary chains this time, I just had a buddy hold the exhaust cams in time while I installed the master chain onto the intake cam then put tension onto each chain at a time and it was done. The Rock Auto kit will also have the secondary chains/tensioners which was extra to me since I already replaced them long before.

All 4 cams have flats they point straight up. Crank washer has a dot kept at 12 o'clock. I took the plugs out to make it easier to adjust. I did grind down the head where it meets the intake sprocket on the driver side due to not having enough clearance to insert the chain since it sits further in than the passenger side.

The first time I used the special tools and it was out of time, might be my fault or crappy tools unsure so I opted not to use the special tools. If you're removing all the chains at once then yes please rent/buy the special tools because it will be hard to keep anything in one place long enough to install chains unless you have like 3 or 4 buddies helping you. I think when I calculated the tools to buy it was over $500 but to rent is maybe $125 from Christopher online.
 
Hector, I have to say, your avatar tie pic, simply strengthens my motivation that I also can perform this job.

+1

#HeCanDoItICanDoIt!
 
BigRigLS said:
Hector, I have to say, your avatar tie pic, simply strengthens my motivation that I also can perform this job.

+1

#HeCanDoItICanDoIt!
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Hahaha don't let the tie fool ya I can get down and dirty which pretty much has been the situation on every repair on the LS. Plus almost every shop said new engine and the only one who would do the repair wanted $1700.00, the car isn't even worth that....I'm cheap so it sat until work allowed time for the repair.

Just got in from changing the passenger side strut on my TC.....tomorrow I'll do the driver side since its too late to be pounding the hammer in the garage.:shifty:
 
No ties were harmed in the repairing of this LS.
 
Thanks for your input Hector. No worries here on the tie lol @ BigRig....I found the complete kit from Christophers Foreign Car Parts for $425.00 might as well do it all while I am in there. The tools I would most likely rent, I cant see buying them being that I am doing one job. "Hopefully" I like this car but I have had one thing after another that needs serviced or replaced.

I can tell ya whom ever had it before did nothing to keep it healthy. I have had it 4 years and stopped driving it 2 years ago and put it in the garage. The list is getting longer :Bang Thanks again for your help.
 
I can add how I got all the valve cover bolts out. I don't feel like reading through the previous 140 posts and you guys know I'm a fan of providing an excess of information.

LSFrank said:
I guess it's about time I posted those tips for reaching all the bolts I was going to past "next week" ... 3 months ago. I may be too late to help anyone being 15 years since the car came out, but whatever. There are still first time LS owners. This is on my Gen 1 V8. There are other writeups and a tech article, but this is meant as a tips, tricks and hints type writeup

If this is your first time, I recommend doing the passenger side first to build confidence, then the driver side because it's a bit harder. If this is not your first time, do the driver side first to get the BS out of the way. One thing to note is most of the bolts are retained in sleeves that are in turn retained by the gaskets. I believe only the two lower firewall-side bolts are not retained. Or uppers. Mine might be mixed up. Reach in and pull; it'll be obvious. Note "remove" usually just means "unscrew until no longer threaded"


Step one: take things off. Wiper arms, cowls, engine cover, headlight cover, shock tower covers, and the canister bolted to the driver shock tower, intake tube from filter to throttle body. The uncovered shock tower brace also provides a nice grab/lean point. Depressurize the fuel line and use the quick disconnect tool to disconnect the fuel line. Remove the shock tower bolt of the fan fluid reservoir.

View attachment 828473302

You'll want the extra access to those back bolts in particular. Yes, you can get away with fewer items removed, but this relieves a bit of stress and complication of 2 u-joints, several extensions, and seeing with your hands

Step 2: disassemble the engine

Step 3. Reassemble.

Here's all I used once that stuff was removed.

8mm normal socket,
8mm deep socket (both 1/4" drive),
1/4" u joint, and extensions.
3/8-1/4 adapter depending on wrench.
I don't remember what the factory coil cover and COP bolts were.

View attachment 828473301

This picture has everything I used for the actual VC bolts, but not pictured:
normal non-torquing ratchet,
fuel line quick disconnect tool,
screwdrivers,
socket for windshield wipers,
beer,
more extensions
1/4" drive screwdriver handle (just for some speed)


Step 2: remove COP covers and COPs

step 3: remove the obvious bolts

step 4: remove the complicated bolts

PASSENGER SIDE

The lower bolt between the forward spark plug and timing chain is a bit tricky. Just rotate the fan fluid reservoir around it;s other bolt and you can get straight extensions through like this

View attachment 828473303

For the lower firewall-end screw, use (in order) shallow 8mm socket, u-joint, ~2ft of extensions, wrench. Stick it between that massive wiring harness and the insulation jacket around your cabin air intake

View attachment 828473304

The upper-rear bolt may be a little tricky due to the plastic harness shield, but the same socket-ujoint-fewer extensions combo should work.

View attachment 828473305


To remove the valve covers once all bolts are removed, just lift up in line with the spark plugs and slide forward towards the radiator. It may stick a bit and take some light prying with a flathead screwdriver. Move it slowly because the screws will catch on the camshaft braces.

Reassembly is reverse, nothing particularly special

DRIVER SIDE

Did you take this thing off?

View attachment 828473307

Do like Ke$ha and take it off.

Remove obvious bolts

The dipstick has a flange that is attached to one of the VC bolts via stud/nut. Remove the dipstick, remove the nut, then pull the entire dipstick tube up. Or, recall how difficult it was to reinstall, and just cut the flange in a way that it hooks the stud, but can still be slid around it and off

Wide shot, but you can see the flange is now a J-shape

View attachment 828473312

Another

View attachment 828473315

Remove stud with deep socket

Next, between cylinders6 and 7 (so the middle of the bank) on the lower side, shove the straight extensions between these two brake lines, between the shock tower and brake reservoir

View attachment 828473316


Get the lower rear firewall bolt the same way you got the corresponding bolt on the passenger side: socket, joint, exteeeeeeeensions. Stick it all between the two solid brake lines coming off the brake booster

View attachment 828473317

To get the upper, just socket and exteeeensions through where the cowl was. My finger points to where the socket/bolt actually are (that little blue)

View attachment 828473318

This VC is harder to remove due to there being more things in the way. Twist the oil fill spout and remove it. It may help to unclip the throttle cable from it's locating bracket in the middle of the car. Move the VC slowly up, then forward. When it gets stuck, try rotating it end to end to see where it's caught. Most of the time, it's a bolt caught on a camshaft part. Just reach under and lift the bolt.

Assembly is mostly the same, in reverse. For the last bolt I showed, you can stuff some paper or paper towel in the socket, followed by the bolt, and it will stay in the socket pretty well.

View attachment 828473319

View attachment 828473320

View attachment 828473321

This is also a good time to replace your cabin filter.

Hope I helped someone. Please consider the environment before quoting this entire post.
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Do you see pictures or just "Attachment 809893048912"? I see attachment links. Clicking the little quote link should bring you to where the pictures work (at least last time I was there haha)
 
LSFrank said:
Do you see pictures or just "Attachment 809893048912"? I see attachment links. Clicking the little quote link should bring you to where the pictures work (at least last time I was there haha)
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I see them as links to the pics, no worries ......works for me just fine. I will take all the help I can get being the new man around here. I just ordered service manuals to help keep me straight as well. Nothing can help more than hands on been there done that from you guys. To say the least I have been reading my azz off in here!! I enjoy it, mark it down as another project for me.
 
LS Meets

Hello,
My name is Clarence and I own a 2006 LS v8. How can I get on the list to be notified about the next LS Meet ?Email is blc303@yahoo.com. Would love to hear from you.

Clarence
 
I don't know of a specific list. I do know guys get together in different parts of the country here and there, seems to be set up more on the FB pages.
 
FWIW, I know a guy who made his own 'special tools' for keeping the cams in time while doing a chain replace. He didn't think it a big deal. He said, "bar stock and some drilling and tapping."

KS
 
joegr said:
Wait. Town Cars have struts now?
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Old post but yea they do. Damn car would bottom out all the time, I knew it was a long car but damn. Everybody said it looked normal but I just couldn't believe it. I put new struts in and it raised it back up.
 
I never knew there was a "meet up" thing going with these cars....or at least nobody ever invited me. Haha I probably wouldn't have been able to drive it out far either way. I just recently sold the LS8 and my Town Car a month ago. I sure do miss fixing her up 24/7.
 
Hector said:
Old post but yea they do. Damn car would bottom out all the time, I knew it was a long car but damn. Everybody said it looked normal but I just couldn't believe it. I put new struts in and it raised it back up.
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I have to say that I do not believe this. Show me a picture of a Town Car without a front upper control arm. If there's an upper arm, then it is coil over shock, just like the LS. I find this particularly funny since many TCs had front air suspension.
 
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