Timing Chain Teardown Time

How did you get the bolts out for the hydraulic fan pump, a/c pump, and the power steering pump. Any tricks that you might have that I could try that worked for you or did you just rip the heads off and pulled the pumps off and fixed the bracket later?
 
Lots of swivels, extensions and curse words. I had two bolts frozen in the block when I did mine - had to shear off the bolt heads with a chisel. Removing the radiator and as many other things as possible helps a great deal.
 
ay sup yall i got my cover off and got the new chains and stuff in it all ready didnt have the tool to hold the camshaft in place but it did move a hair or two on the left and right side but i need to know how the crap do you time this car
 
Oh goodie, my favourite LVC thread. I still have it bookmarked.

More then likely it's the exhaust cam that spun. you'll need to get the flats to sit even for both cams per side.

There should be some pics of the flats in this thread if I remember correctly.

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btw: I'd be interested in VCG part numbers for GEN 1 2001 V8
 
so do i have to use a special tool or do i just turn them after loosing the chains again i just dont wanna bend anything or mess nothing up cause im proud of myself for doing it took me bout 3weeks
 
It's best to have the tool that clamps the flats in line with the sealing surface of the head, as well as the key that locks the crank. The standard procedure requires loosening the exhaust sprocket, then tightening while applying tension. It's hard to get that set up correctly otherwise.
Several folks have come up with their own methods, including using large wrenches, using some flat bar stock, etc. You can be creative, or roll the dice, or rent the tools from Christopher's Foreign Parts on eBay.
 
yeah see when i did it all i didnt have not one of the special tools i needed but it still come off great its just look like its off a tooth on both sides came from tighting it up but i lossing the chains again and turned the cams and the are even and left side is facing away from the motor and right is facing the motor so do you think that will work
 
You'll do a lot of damage if you get it wrong. I'd rent the tools if I had any doubt.
 
The flats have to be even parallel on top and from what I've read it's the exhaust cam that turns one or two teeth. If anything, even with the locking tool, you'd have to have the exhaust cam flat match the intake cam flat.

If you're just taking off the sprockets without the locking tool and rotating the cams freely, you could end up with your timing so bad out that when you crank it over, it wil, like Joe says do a lot of damage.

Had the timing not skipped and you were going in to just change out the secondary tensioners, it could be done without a locking tool. I've seen on here guys manage to return the exhaust cam one tooth without the locking tool but it's risky business. You'd want to get it right.
 
ok just tlk to my guy from a ford service and he said its gotta be flat and lined with my timing marks what would they look like cause he said ita on the cam and on the head
 
Well that's the thing, you can't get the locking tool on it if they have already skipped.
the whole point of putting the locking tool on is to keep the flats and timing even while the sprockets are removed.
 
so now what do i do bout getting em back in timing and then i would need to hold the cam after getting them back right
 
With the tools, you would turn the crank shaft to the correct position and put the crankshaft lock tool in. Then you would have to loosen the sprocket bolts on any cams that weren't turned correctly. (Probably difficult to do without them locked and without doing any damage. Normally, the chain(s) would be off at this point so you wouldn't have to loosen the sprocket bolt yet.) Then put the cam locking tools on and tighten the sprocket bolt(s).
 
well what it sound like is that my lincoln will not be getting fixed cause i cant get those tools and seem like its gonna be sitting cause i have no idea what else to do
 
I suppose you could make your own tools.
I think that you can get by without the crank lock. You just need to be able to figure out when you have the crank turned to the correct position.
It should be reasonable to fabricate your own cam locks.
 
yeah i found some i can drill three holes in that could hold them just gotta find that right position like u said see im in automotive tech class and really dont have help from the teacher casue he dont even know
 
ChrisJ32 said:
yeah i found some i can drill three holes in that could hold them just gotta find that right position like u said see im in automotive tech class and really dont have help from the teacher casue he dont even know
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If you take the crankshaft position sensor out, and look through the hole the sensor was in, you should be able to figure it out. As you rotate the crankshaft, you should eventually see a special shaped hole in the flexplate that the crank holding tool would fit in. It two rotations of the crank for every rotation of the cams, so you may have to turn it one more full turn after you find it the first time.
 
ay yall quick question if the crank didnt move when i torn this lincoln down but my cams was off a tooth or two when i turn them will i have to turn the crank again casue its sitting at 3oclock right now
 
Maybe? Can't really make heads or tails on what you are talking about. Make sure the crank is aligned properly then line up the cams properly. And hopefully you don't get the crank 360deg out of phase.
 
thank everybody that helped me thru this timing chain thing its running better then ever now just gotta find a hose for the power steering pump on the passager side
 
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